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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

5
Balkon
Rock Climbing
2
Paraple
Rock Climbing
3
Paraple
Rock Climbing
4+
Balkon
The start is identical to route 17. - "Traverse, continue along the crack to its end,… Rock Climbing
5
Balkon
Start approx. 3 m to the right of N, Jantárie route. Up the slab in line with the large… Rock Climbing
3
Balkon
Rock Climbing
4+
Balkon
Rock Climbing
5
Balkon
Rock Climbing
4+
Balkon
The start is a crack about 1 meter to the right of the first bolt, climb the crack up to… Rock Climbing
6+
Balkon
Start without the boulder to the right, route without using the crack Rock Climbing
3-
Balkon
Rock Climbing
5
Balkon
Straightening - continuation of Direkta, N. from the footbridge - at 2/3 of the wall -… Rock Climbing
2
Balkon
Up the crack to the left of the main wall, then along the rocks to the right under the… Rock Climbing
4+
Balkon
Slab to the left of Puklinka (No. 20 in the guidebook) without using the crack or edges. Rock Climbing
3
Balkon
Crack in the middle of the left projecting wall of the balcony, then up the slab to the… Rock Climbing
4
Balkon
Slab to the left of Panenka without using a crack or edge. Route description from the… Rock Climbing
3-
Balkon
Right edge of the wall to the right of Panenka, unroped, 7 meters long. Rock Climbing
6
Balkon
Start left of the c. New Direttissima into the overhang and main slab /approx. 0.5 m from… Rock Climbing
2
Balkon
To the right of Chlapeček up two slabs behind the pine tree. Unroped, 5 meters long. Rock Climbing
3
Balkon
In the right part of the wall via a small corner to a ledge and along it traverse left to… Rock Climbing
4
Balkon
Start left of the Soukač route, via the slab along the edge below the second overhang /… Rock Climbing
2+
Červená stěna
From the start between two walls over a knob upwards, unprotected, length 5 meters. Rock Climbing
3+
Červená stěna
In the left part of the wall over larger overhanging boulders upwards, unprotected,… Rock Climbing
7+
Velká šikmá věž
The widest crack on the large slanted tower, about 1 meter from the right corner of the… Rock Climbing
5+
Červená stěna
unprotected Rock Climbing
3+
Červená stěna
In the left part of the wall over smaller layered boulders upwards, unprotected, length 9… Rock Climbing
5+
Žlutá stěna
Via a thin crack. Unprotected. Rock Climbing
8-
Martinka
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database. Rock Climbing
?
C-sektor
Rocks of the Czech Republic, ČHS database. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
0
Macocha - vrchol
Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1

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