Part of 21. Spálenisko, Jižní stěna has 36 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 4+ to 9/9+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Route on sun, Vertical wall.
Rules
Nature Conservation: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature Conservation Document: Measure of a General Nature 2021, map 2021, authority OP Administration of NP Czech Switzerland
- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park
- Climb in daylight only.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- Jumps between towers are not allowed.
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
7/7+
Jeď nebo leť
To the right of “Capuccino” up the wall to the ledge (left, clock) and further over 3 BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4+
Jantarova spára
About 18m to the right of the prominent corner (Black Hole route) onto the fore-rock.… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Jižní cesta
To the right of the prominent corner along the blunt edge onto the ledge (K). Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Odpolední zákusek
About 8m to the right of the prominent corner along the crack to K. Up the wall slightly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Cappucino
About 12m to the right of the prominent corner up the wall over 3 K to the rappel. BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
8-/8
Vánoční poselství
To the right of the Black Hole, up the blunt edge to the ledge and left to a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Moderní klasika
Like "Black Hole" several meters up and left, first via a small crack, then the corner… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Všední den na východě
From the 2nd BH of 'Modern Classic', slightly right over BH to the balcony at the edge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Ve jménu růže
Up the "Black Hole" corner for 6 meters and left up the wall, crack, and wall (5 BH) to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4+
Černá díra
Up the prominent corner, higher through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7/7+
Vystupujte vpravo ve směru jízdy
Like "Above the Model Railway" to the ledge and right up the wall (4 BH) to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Poslední stanice Růžový hřeben - Jih
3m to the left of the "Black Hole" route, over the added pillar and up the wall (7 BH) to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Přesně
Up the wall via BH directly into the 'Last Station, named Pink Ridge South' route and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Tofu Fighters
To the left of the 'Last Station' route's pillar… from the boulder up the wall via 2 BH,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Modří vědí
From the upper terrace along the rounded edge via BH to K. Up the wall (hour-glass) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Nad modelovou železnicí
In the left part of the upper terrace (belay station with BH), to the left of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Lovci paprsků
To the left of the "Greenhouse" route, up the wall via K to the balcony (station). Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Skleník
About 4 m to the left of the 'Above the Model Railway' route's belay station, up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
5+
Stěnka
In the left part of the upper tier, to the right of the 'Edge' route, ascend the wall (4… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Hrana
To the left on the upper tier at the West Edge, via 5 BH to the abseil point. Belay (2 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Trpělivá
In the west wall, along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Hodinový manžel
From the ledge in the left part of the wall, up via 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Starýho psa ...
To the right of the 'Chrptová doska' route, up the west edge via K to the upper terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Chrptová doska
To the left of the "Old Dog" route, up the slab via 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Neznámá
To the right of the crack, up the wall via K to the pillar for abseiling. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Jeníčkova cesta
In the right part of the lower wall, to the left of the corner, up the wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Škoda slov
Up the wall between two corners via 2 BH to the hour-glass below the first overhang and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Akumulátor
To the right of the 'Bokovka' route, ascend the wall (2 K) to the terrace. To the right,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Telegram
Briefly through the corner and left into the wall. Up it via 2 K into the chimney and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
I cesta je cíl
In the lowest part of the massif, right up the crack, higher up the crack in the corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2