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Climbing at 21. Spálenisko

109 routes
9 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Spálenisko on the right bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 100 routes – most on Jižní stěna, with more on Spálenisko, Parník, Lodivod, Bójka and Dubínek. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection, often in the sun; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 21. Spálenisko has 109 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.79422, 14.24956

Google Waze
Jižní stěna 36 routes Spálenisko 15 routes Parník 13 routes Lodivod 11 routes Bójka 10 routes Dubínek 9 routes Goliášek 6 routes Loubská jehla 6 routes Smyčková stěna 3 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
3
Dubínek
From the start of the "Old Route", diagonally right up the receding crack to the pulpit… Rock Climbing
3
Dubínek
Up the center of the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Dubínek
From S, up the chimney and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Dubínek
Along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Dubínek
About 3 m to the left of the South edge, up the wall, higher up slightly to the right via… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2+
Dubínek
Up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Dubínek
To the left of the base, up the wall and traverse right along the crustation to the end.… Rock Climbing
5+
Dubínek
Up the S edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Dubínek
To the left in the valley wall, up the smooth wall and up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Jižní stěna
About 18m to the right of the prominent corner (Black Hole route) onto the fore-rock.… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7/7+
Jižní stěna
To the right of “Capuccino” up the wall to the ledge (left, clock) and further over 3 BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
8-/8
Jižní stěna
To the right of the Black Hole, up the blunt edge to the ledge and left to a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Jižní stěna
About 12m to the right of the prominent corner up the wall over 3 K to the rappel. BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6+/7-
Jižní stěna
About 8m to the right of the prominent corner along the crack to K. Up the wall slightly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Jižní stěna
To the right of the prominent corner along the blunt edge onto the ledge (K). Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Jižní stěna
Up the prominent corner, higher through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7-/7
Jižní stěna
Up the "Black Hole" corner for 6 meters and left up the wall, crack, and wall (5 BH) to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Jižní stěna
From the 2nd BH of 'Modern Classic', slightly right over BH to the balcony at the edge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Jižní stěna
Like "Black Hole" several meters up and left, first via a small crack, then the corner… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Jižní stěna
To the left of the 'Last Station' route's pillar… from the boulder up the wall via 2 BH,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Jižní stěna
3m to the left of the "Black Hole" route, over the added pillar and up the wall (7 BH) to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Jižní stěna
Like "Above the Model Railway" to the ledge and right up the wall (4 BH) to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Jižní stěna
Up the wall via BH directly into the 'Last Station, named Pink Ridge South' route and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Jižní stěna
From the upper terrace along the rounded edge via BH to K. Up the wall (hour-glass) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Jižní stěna
In the left part of the upper terrace (belay station with BH), to the left of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Jižní stěna
To the left of the "Greenhouse" route, up the wall via K to the balcony (station). Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Jižní stěna
About 4 m to the left of the 'Above the Model Railway' route's belay station, up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
5+
Jižní stěna
In the left part of the upper tier, to the right of the 'Edge' route, ascend the wall (4… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Jižní stěna
From the ledge in the left part of the wall, up via 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Jižní stěna
In the west wall, along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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