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Climbing at 21. Spálenisko

109 routes
9 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Spálenisko on the right bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 100 routes – most on Jižní stěna, with more on Spálenisko, Parník, Lodivod, Bójka and Dubínek. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection, often in the sun; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 21. Spálenisko has 109 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.79422, 14.24956

Google Waze
Jižní stěna 36 routes Spálenisko 15 routes Parník 13 routes Lodivod 11 routes Bójka 10 routes Dubínek 9 routes Goliášek 6 routes Loubská jehla 6 routes Smyčková stěna 3 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5+
Jižní stěna
To the left on the upper tier at the West Edge, via 5 BH to the abseil point. Belay (2 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4+
Jižní stěna
In the right part of the lower wall, to the left of the corner, up the wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Jižní stěna
To the left of the "Old Dog" route, up the slab via 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Jižní stěna
To the right of the crack, up the wall via K to the pillar for abseiling. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Jižní stěna
To the right of the 'Chrptová doska' route, up the west edge via K to the upper terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Jižní stěna
Briefly through the corner and left into the wall. Up it via 2 K into the chimney and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Jižní stěna
To the right of the 'Bokovka' route, ascend the wall (2 K) to the terrace. To the right,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4+
Jižní stěna
In the lowest part of the massif, right up the crack, higher up the crack in the corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Jižní stěna
Up the wall between two corners via 2 BH to the hour-glass below the first overhang and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Jižní stěna
To the left of the blunt edge in the middle of the lower wall, traverse 2 K to the first… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Jižní stěna
In the left part of the South wall, to the left of the crack, up the wall over K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Jižní stěna
To the left of the route 'Křížovkářka' along the crack, higher up the wall over 3 BH to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Jižní stěna
In the valley wall to the right of the crack up the gently sloping wall over 4 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Jižní stěna
In the left part of the wall over a BH and ledge to the 2nd BH, then up the slabby wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Jižní stěna
Completely to the left in the W wall up the pillar over 2 BH to the rappel point. The… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Loubská jehla
Start like the "Valley Route". To the right onto the edge of the flake, then follow it… Rock Climbing
3
Loubská jehla
From the plateau side, traverse left to a small balcony in the valley wall and up the… Rock Climbing
4-
Loubská jehla
Up the NE edge below the smooth small wall, right along the edge to the ledge and left up… Rock Climbing
4-
Loubská jehla
Up the narrow valley wall, higher up via a crack to the balcony of the "Old Route" and up… Rock Climbing
3
Loubská jehla
Up the chimney in the S wall to the detached block, then right up the wall and crack to… Rock Climbing
5
Loubská jehla
To the left of the South Route, up the edge and crack to the balcony, then continue on… Rock Climbing
2
Spálenisko
On the plateau side, up a short chimney and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Spálenisko
From the balcony on the plateau side, through the chimney of the "Old Route" and the left… Rock Climbing
4+
Spálenisko
In the right part of the N side, up the wall, crack and further over the overhang or to… Rock Climbing
3
Spálenisko
From the ramp in the S wall, to the right up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Spálenisko
To the right of the NW edge to K on the valley side. Up to the right, directly up the… Rock Climbing
4+
Spálenisko
Up the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Spálenisko
Up the crack to the left in the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Spálenisko
Like the 'Sun in the Soul' route to the ring. Diagonally left up the wall to the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Spálenisko
To the right in the valley wall via a prominent corner up to below the overhang, below it… Rock Climbing

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