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Climbing at 21. Spálenisko

109 routes
9 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Spálenisko on the right bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 100 routes – most on Jižní stěna, with more on Spálenisko, Parník, Lodivod, Bójka and Dubínek. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection, often in the sun; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 21. Spálenisko has 109 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.79422, 14.24956

Google Waze
Jižní stěna 36 routes Spálenisko 15 routes Parník 13 routes Lodivod 11 routes Bójka 10 routes Dubínek 9 routes Goliášek 6 routes Loubská jehla 6 routes Smyčková stěna 3 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
4+
Spálenisko
To the left of "Harbor View", up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Spálenisko
From the ledge, up the middle of the West face to the ring. Up the wall and right via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Spálenisko
In the middle of the S wall, up the rib and wall to the ledge, then right up into the … Rock Climbing
5+
Spálenisko
To the right of the 'Sun in the Soul' route, up the wall to the right of the shallow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Spálenisko
On the S side, diagonally left up the ramp and over the steps to the valley edge. Follow… Rock Climbing
5+
Spálenisko
In the valley wall to the right of the large corner, up the pillar to the BH. Higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Bójka
From the East, up the wall and a short crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Smyčková stěna
To the left of the 'Memories Remain' route, up the pillar along the cracks directly to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Smyčková stěna
Along the right valley (SW) edge all the way to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Smyčková stěna
From the lowest point in the middle of the valley (West) wall, via a large corner that… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Bójka
To the right of the 'Plateau Edge' directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Bójka
From the plateau side, traverse right to the balcony of the Old Route. Up the overhanging… Rock Climbing
2+
Bójka
To the right in the plateau wall via a short crack to the balcony, transition to the… Rock Climbing
3
Bójka
Up the wall along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Bójka
Up the middle of the South face, higher up via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Bójka
To the right in the valley wall via a crack, higher up via the chimney and the 'Old Route… Rock Climbing
5+
Bójka
To the left of the 'Valley Route' via a crack over the overhang, a crack onto the 'nose' … Rock Climbing
7/7+
Bójka
Up the middle of the plateau wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Bójka
From the Southeast, diagonally left onto the ledge and left along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Parník
To the right in the North face, up the wall along the inconspicuous pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Parník
Up the wall directly to the adjacent block of the North Route, directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Parník
Like the 'North Route' to the block and directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Parník
To the right of the 'South Chimney' route, up the wall along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Parník
From the East, via the notch to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Parník
To the left of the 'Old Route' via the Falcon's crack to the adjacent block. Traverse… Rock Climbing
4-
Parník
To the left in the North face, via the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Parník
To the left of the 'North Corner' directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Parník
Up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Parník
From the S chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Parník
To the left in the S wall via a crack to the ledge and via cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing

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