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Climbing at 21. Spálenisko

109 routes
9 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Spálenisko on the right bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 100 routes – most on Jižní stěna, with more on Spálenisko, Parník, Lodivod, Bójka and Dubínek. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection, often in the sun; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 21. Spálenisko has 109 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.79422, 14.24956

5
Lodivod
In the right part of the S wall, via a corner, a receding crack to the left, and a narrow… Rock Climbing
5
Parník
From the fore-rock on the valley side, step right and up the wall over the 1st bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Parník
In the valley (W) wall, to the left of the corner, via a crack to the platform. Through… Rock Climbing
6-
Lodivod
In the right part of the S wall (left of the 'On Thin Ice' route) directly up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Lodivod
Completely to the right in the S wall (right of the 'On Thin Ice' route) via a crack… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Lodivod
To the left of the 'Stars in the Palm' route, up an overhanging wall over 2 BH to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Lodivod
Approximately in the middle of the S wall briefly into a ledge and in it left above the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Lodivod
To the right of the 'Destructive Wave' route, up the corner to its end and left via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Goliášek
Through the middle of the right pillar over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Goliášek
In the upper part, from the balcony along the right edge over several steep sections to… Rock Climbing
2+
Goliášek
Through the chimney between the towers to the N summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Lodivod
From the start of the 'Dangerous Shallows' route, continuously upwards via a receding… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Lodivod
Completely to the left on the valley side (large birch) via an S-shaped crack in the… Rock Climbing
5+
Lodivod
Through the middle of the valley (W) wall via cracks to the overhang. Through a wide… Rock Climbing
6
Lodivod
To the left in the valley up the wall under the overhang (K). Over it up to the ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Lodivod
To the right in the valley wall to the ring. Over a large overhang and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Goliášek
Up the valley wall over K to a ledge, through the overhang along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Goliášek
In the right part of the valley wall, via a chimney, initially narrow, to the North… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Goliášek
From the ledge at the valley edge (clock) along the gully (loops) higher up the wall to a… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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