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Climbing at Kacanovy

77 routes
20 areas
1–9 grades

Kacanovy in outer Hruboskalsko in Bohemian Paradise offer almost 80 routes on 20 sandstone rocks – for example Kacanovy krík, Rozvalina, Kacanovský bažináč, Kacanováček, Rozpadlá and Malina. The climbing is traditional with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 9.

Part of Hruboskalsko outer area, Kacanovy has 77 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9. Explore its 20 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Textile belay.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature Conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions are for specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority of Nature Conservation Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

3
Poštolka
In the right half of the North face, via the corner and higher up, along the right uphill… Rock Climbing
2
Poštolka
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database. Rock Climbing
3
Muška
Northwest via a smooth edge to the ledge and diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Muška
Rock Climbing
3
Muška
Via a small wall to the right of the SW fore-rock, diagonally left to the hole and right… Rock Climbing
6
Poštolka
From the sloping ledge in the west face, about a meter left of the edge, upwards and over… Rock Climbing
1
Loch
Rock Climbing
8
Kněžna
In the valley wall, via a distinctive crack to the first ring of the 'Late Spring… Rock Climbing
6
Kněžna
In the valley wall, via the corner crack, left and up the wall to the balcony. Through… Rock Climbing
6
Kněžna
Traverse on the ledge into the valley wall (ring) and along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Kněžna
From the uphill side, through the corner under the cap. Via the crack, or left along the… Rock Climbing
2
Hradiště
Via the left NE crack to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Hradiště
Rock Climbing
1
Hradiště
Through the chimney under the ceiling, out and by stemming to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Kacanováček
Through the middle of the narrow windward wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Kacanovy krík
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6
Kacanovy krík
Through the narrow chimney all the way to the right.
6
Kacanovy krík
Via the crack running slightly left with a root. Shared bolt with the route 'Slanted'.
6
Kacanovy krík
Via the crack diagonally left along the corner. Shared bolt with the route 'Over the Root…
7
Kacanovy krík
Via the crack in the highest part of the wall, directly opposite the approach path.
9
Kacanovy krík
Via the sharp edge over 3 bolts to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6
Kacanovy krík
Via the finger crack on the left edge of the quarry.
6-
Kacanovy krík
Via the crack to the top.
6-
Kacanovy krík
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7
Kacanovy krík
Along the angled crack to the top.
7
Kacanovy krík
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database. Rock Climbing
1
Kacanovy krík
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database. Rock Climbing
8
Kacanovy krík
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database. Rock Climbing
2
Tmavá skalka
Via the small tower into the chimney and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Tmavá skalka
From the south, any way to the summit. Rock Climbing

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