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Climbing at Kacanovy

77 routes
20 areas
1–9 grades

Kacanovy in outer Hruboskalsko in Bohemian Paradise offer almost 80 routes on 20 sandstone rocks – for example Kacanovy krík, Rozvalina, Kacanovský bažináč, Kacanováček, Rozpadlá and Malina. The climbing is traditional with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 9.

Part of Hruboskalsko outer area, Kacanovy has 77 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9. Explore its 20 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Textile belay.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature Conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions are for specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority of Nature Conservation Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

2
Vodouch
From the uphill side, left into a narrow small wall and through it to the rounded summit. Rock Climbing
1
Tmavá skalka
From the south, any way to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Tmavá skalka
Via the small tower into the chimney and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Tmavá skalka
By stemming under the overhang and via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Tmavá skalka
From the NW via the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Skála překvapení
From the uphill side, along the edge. Rock Climbing
1
Skála překvapení
From the west, via the corner and thus to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Skála překvapení
Up the North face over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Skála překvapení
Up the wall from the SE into the crack and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Schýlená
From the uphill side, by stemming into the indentation in the valley wall and then left… Rock Climbing
7
Schýlená
Up the middle of the uphill wall and right to the ring. Along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Schýlená
From the uphill side, by traversing from the fore-rock into the wall, upwards and along… Rock Climbing
2
Sklepník
Via a small wall onto artificial steps and up to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Rozvalina
Via the indentation to the right of 'N. c.' to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Pytlík
Rock Climbing
2
Rozpadlá
From the west to the fore-rock, left to the northern fore-summit and over the boulder to… Rock Climbing
2
Rozpadlá
South edge. Rock Climbing
4
Rozpadlá
Via a wide chimney from the south to the fore-rock and up the overhanging edge to the… Rock Climbing
3
Rozpadlá
From the NE via a narrow chimney to the northern fore-summit and to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Rozpadlá
From the east into the chimney, through it to the northern fore-summit and over the… Rock Climbing
2
Rozvalina
Rock Climbing
2
Rozvalina
Start left of the crack, higher up along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Rozvalina
From the NW via a crack to the ledge and then via the small chimney of the 'Opposite… Rock Climbing
1
Rozvalina
From the ledge in the NW wall via the chimney. Rock Climbing
8
Rozvalina
The route follows the line of the right valley edge. From the right, from a boulder or… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Rozvalina
Via the right or left crack from the SE to the boulder and from there to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Malina
Rock Climbing
2
Malina
Rock Climbing
2
Komáří ostroh
Rock Climbing
1
Komáří ostroh
From the south onto the overgrown fore-rock and down to the summit. Rock Climbing

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