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Climbing at Klokočské skály

1298 routes
200 areas
1–11 grades

Klokočské skály near Turnov are, with almost 1,300 routes on 200 rocks, among the largest areas in Bohemian Paradise. The rocks with the most routes include Království, Kolonáda, Amerika, Kančí stěny, Masivy pod lavičkou and Sedící býk. The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 11.

Part of Northern areas, Klokočské skály has 1298 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 200 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Overhang, Danger.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature Conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from 1. 11. to 31. 3., exceptions exist for specific rocks.Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority OP CHKO Český Ráj (Bohemian Paradise Protected Landscape Area)

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.59873, 15.22205

Království 48 routes Kolonáda 24 routes Amerika 20 routes Kančí stěny 19 routes Masivy pod lavičkou 18 routes Sedící býk 17 routes Indián 17 routes Průchodová 17 routes Vřesovec 16 routes Růženčina věž 16 routes Měsíční stěna 16 routes Tři mušketýři 15 routes Pevnost 15 routes Stinné masivy 14 routes Děravá 14 routes Austrálie 14 routes Strašidlo 14 routes Klokočský průchod 14 routes Bidet 14 routes Pavlač 14 routes Afrika 14 routes Jery 14 routes Pekelník 14 routes Golem 14 routes Rybana 13 routes Borová 13 routes Banderas 13 routes Atlantida 12 routes Blíženci 12 routes Romadůr 12 routes Lokomotiva 11 routes Panáček 11 routes Radnice 11 routes Šachovnice 11 routes Osvobozená stěna 10 routes Junácká věž 10 routes Hranol 10 routes Dělo (Pastýř) 10 routes Segal 10 routes Tamburína 10 routes Petrolejka 10 routes Alma mater 10 routes Sluneční stěna 10 routes Trosečník 9 routes Vyhlídková věž 9 routes Malířské rozhledy 9 routes Zlaté písky 9 routes Tunel 9 routes Střelnice 9 routes Řepka 9 routes Kazatelna 9 routes Jůlinka 9 routes Koule 8 routes Ztracené stěny 8 routes Ementál 8 routes Oáza 8 routes Rivrr 8 routes Mlok 8 routes Žlutá ponorka 8 routes Svojsíkův průlez 8 routes Brandejs 8 routes Indiánka 8 routes Wounded knee 8 routes Archa 8 routes Rigoletto 8 routes Mucholapka 8 routes Klenba 8 routes Bidýlko 8 routes Zármutek 8 routes Kuřátka 8 routes Domino 8 routes Bota 8 routes Hladová věž 7 routes Trojnožka 7 routes Houbař 7 routes Černý kontinent 7 routes Zoubek 7 routes Elita 7 routes Hostinec 7 routes Strážce Radnice 7 routes Lehátko 7 routes Šibenice 7 routes Mraveneček 7 routes Stará Blažková 6 routes Orlí hnízdo (Junák) 6 routes Bazén 6 routes Květináč 6 routes Putyka 6 routes Křemílek 6 routes Tajtrlík 6 routes Negr 6 routes Kolt 6 routes Brčálová stěna 6 routes Triangulační masiv 6 routes Klokočka 5 routes Slimák 5 routes Mrzáček 5 routes Korálek 5 routes Masiv nad Neptunem 5 routes Dvojče 5 routes Zdánlivka 5 routes Simba 5 routes Klokočí 5 routes Keřík 5 routes Pětichlapka 5 routes Lilie 5 routes Šupináč 5 routes Podzimní věž 5 routes Sitatunga 5 routes Džbán 5 routes Džíp 5 routes Galerka 5 routes Posvícenská věž 5 routes Hříbek 4 routes Vosí hnízdo 4 routes Varhany 4 routes Kýl 4 routes Kupecká brána 4 routes Strážnice 4 routes Hery 4 routes Mokasín 4 routes Palice 4 routes Sršeň 4 routes Balkón 4 routes Benjamínek 4 routes Klouzačka 4 routes U Jislovy jeskyně 4 routes Bivak u Želwy 3 routes Neptun 3 routes Náhrobek 3 routes Fortna 3 routes Loch 3 routes Ťuťínek 3 routes Pučmeloud 3 routes Antoušek 3 routes Dívčí stěna 3 routes Desátník 3 routes Gejša 3 routes Šibenička 3 routes Trojhránek 3 routes Kvartet 3 routes Klínek 3 routes Aluet 3 routes Mesa verde 3 routes Muay mana 3 routes Kujánek 3 routes Rosnička 3 routes Kotlík 2 routes Keson 2 routes Předskalí blíženců 2 routes Křišťálová stěna 2 routes Tallingrad 2 routes Jidáš 2 routes Ikaros 2 routes Hadice 2 routes Roláda 2 routes Kalendárium 2 routes Kvočna 2 routes Šakal 2 routes Mafián 2 routes Soumar 2 routes Bizon 2 routes Vážky 2 routes Kačer 2 routes Red house 2 routes Ministrant 2 routes Čistírna 2 routes Panenka 2 routes Tlustínek 2 routes Neznámá 2 routes Dírovec 2 routes Předhradí 2 routes Okupant 2 routes Sedící býk - předskalí 2 routes Flečr 2 routes Orloj 2 routes Bobřík 1 route Mísa 1 route Masiv pod Pětichlapkou 1 route Arkády 1 route Bigos 1 route Předskalí Golema 1 route Paraple 1 route Felix 1 route Gabion 1 route Podkova 1 route Richard 1 route Masiv nad schůdky 1 route Hnízdo 1 route Rudý koutek 1 route Prst 1 route Vajíčko 1 route Močál 1 route Orionka 1 route Luna 1 route Pajcr 1 route Lampión 1 route Základní kámen 1 route Torpédo 1 route Hmyzolap 1 route
7
Masiv nad Neptunem
From the passage up the wall to the bolt and by crack (sling) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Masivy pod lavičkou
In the right wall, left of the wall's center, up the wall to a platform (slings). Through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Masivy pod lavičkou
By the leftmost edge of the left side via the 1st bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Masivy pod lavičkou
Via route "Nechoď tam" (Don't go there) to the bolt. From the right above it and straight… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Masivy pod lavičkou
In the left wall at the first left edge by a small pinnacle to the 1st bolt. Left onto… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Masivy pod lavičkou
In the left part of the right wall, right of the depression, up the wall to below the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Masivy pod lavičkou
In the right wall, left of the left crack, up the wall via a hole to the 1st bolt. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Masivy pod lavičkou
In the right part of the left wall, directly over the ledge to the 1st bolt. Straight up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Masivy pod lavičkou
In the left upper part of the left wall, left of the chimney, from a hole into a crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Masivy pod lavičkou
From the 2nd bolt of route "Vy neznáte brablenci?" (Don't you know the ants?) up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Mesa verde
From the ledge up the wall via a piton and a bolt to the 3rd bolt, from the left over a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Mesa verde
In the left part of the wall by a corner crack almost to the end to the bolt, up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Měsíční stěna
Follow the route "Old Steam Engine" to the 2nd ring, right past the edge to the ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Měsíční stěna
Follow the route "Vasil Bivak" to the 2nd overhang. Right past the edge into the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Měsíční stěna
In the right part of the middle wall (left of the corner) up the wall and by a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Měsíční stěna
In the left part of the middle side wall, ascend the wall and overhang to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Měsíční stěna
In the middle of the massif from the grassy terrace, to the right of the corner, ascend… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Močál
Up the left side wall along the cracks over a ring and a bolt to the ledge. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Orionka
Overhanging corner crack over ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Osvobozená stěna
Up the center of the wall above the block directly over the 1st ring to a grassy ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Osvobozená stěna
Up the center of the valley wall to the 1st ring. Left into the small tower, up it and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Osvobozená stěna
In the right part of the valley wall, in the middle of the pillar, up the wall over a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Osvobozená stěna
In the left part of the valley wall directly to the 1st ring. Up the wall into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Pajcr
Right of the overhanging wide section, up the wall over the overhang into the crack, top… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Panenka
In the right side wall, through a crack to the shelf (hourglass). To the left to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Pětichlapka
In the right part of the left valley wall to a small crack to the 1st ring. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-
Pětichlapka
Through the strongly overhanging valley wall over a ring and bolt to the terrace. Through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Rigoletto
Approach as for the "Lollipop" route, higher diagonally right to the ring via a hollow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Rigoletto
In the valley wall along the edge, into a large hole and up the wall over 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Rigoletto
In the right part of the left valley wall via the wall to the 1st ring. Along the rounded… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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