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Climbing at Klokočské skály

1298 routes
200 areas
1–11 grades

Klokočské skály near Turnov are, with almost 1,300 routes on 200 rocks, among the largest areas in Bohemian Paradise. The rocks with the most routes include Království, Kolonáda, Amerika, Kančí stěny, Masivy pod lavičkou and Sedící býk. The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 11.

Part of Northern areas, Klokočské skály has 1298 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 200 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Overhang, Danger.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature Conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from 1. 11. to 31. 3., exceptions exist for specific rocks.Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority OP CHKO Český Ráj (Bohemian Paradise Protected Landscape Area)

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.59873, 15.22205

Království 48 routes Kolonáda 24 routes Amerika 20 routes Kančí stěny 19 routes Masivy pod lavičkou 18 routes Sedící býk 17 routes Indián 17 routes Průchodová 17 routes Vřesovec 16 routes Růženčina věž 16 routes Měsíční stěna 16 routes Tři mušketýři 15 routes Pevnost 15 routes Stinné masivy 14 routes Děravá 14 routes Austrálie 14 routes Strašidlo 14 routes Klokočský průchod 14 routes Bidet 14 routes Pavlač 14 routes Afrika 14 routes Jery 14 routes Pekelník 14 routes Golem 14 routes Rybana 13 routes Borová 13 routes Banderas 13 routes Atlantida 12 routes Blíženci 12 routes Romadůr 12 routes Lokomotiva 11 routes Panáček 11 routes Radnice 11 routes Šachovnice 11 routes Osvobozená stěna 10 routes Junácká věž 10 routes Hranol 10 routes Dělo (Pastýř) 10 routes Segal 10 routes Tamburína 10 routes Petrolejka 10 routes Alma mater 10 routes Sluneční stěna 10 routes Trosečník 9 routes Vyhlídková věž 9 routes Malířské rozhledy 9 routes Zlaté písky 9 routes Tunel 9 routes Střelnice 9 routes Řepka 9 routes Kazatelna 9 routes Jůlinka 9 routes Koule 8 routes Ztracené stěny 8 routes Ementál 8 routes Oáza 8 routes Rivrr 8 routes Mlok 8 routes Žlutá ponorka 8 routes Svojsíkův průlez 8 routes Brandejs 8 routes Indiánka 8 routes Wounded knee 8 routes Archa 8 routes Rigoletto 8 routes Mucholapka 8 routes Klenba 8 routes Bidýlko 8 routes Zármutek 8 routes Kuřátka 8 routes Domino 8 routes Bota 8 routes Hladová věž 7 routes Trojnožka 7 routes Houbař 7 routes Černý kontinent 7 routes Zoubek 7 routes Elita 7 routes Hostinec 7 routes Strážce Radnice 7 routes Lehátko 7 routes Šibenice 7 routes Mraveneček 7 routes Stará Blažková 6 routes Orlí hnízdo (Junák) 6 routes Bazén 6 routes Květináč 6 routes Putyka 6 routes Křemílek 6 routes Tajtrlík 6 routes Negr 6 routes Kolt 6 routes Brčálová stěna 6 routes Triangulační masiv 6 routes Klokočka 5 routes Slimák 5 routes Mrzáček 5 routes Korálek 5 routes Masiv nad Neptunem 5 routes Dvojče 5 routes Zdánlivka 5 routes Simba 5 routes Klokočí 5 routes Keřík 5 routes Pětichlapka 5 routes Lilie 5 routes Šupináč 5 routes Podzimní věž 5 routes Sitatunga 5 routes Džbán 5 routes Džíp 5 routes Galerka 5 routes Posvícenská věž 5 routes Hříbek 4 routes Vosí hnízdo 4 routes Varhany 4 routes Kýl 4 routes Kupecká brána 4 routes Strážnice 4 routes Hery 4 routes Mokasín 4 routes Palice 4 routes Sršeň 4 routes Balkón 4 routes Benjamínek 4 routes Klouzačka 4 routes U Jislovy jeskyně 4 routes Bivak u Želwy 3 routes Neptun 3 routes Náhrobek 3 routes Fortna 3 routes Loch 3 routes Ťuťínek 3 routes Pučmeloud 3 routes Antoušek 3 routes Dívčí stěna 3 routes Desátník 3 routes Gejša 3 routes Šibenička 3 routes Trojhránek 3 routes Kvartet 3 routes Klínek 3 routes Aluet 3 routes Mesa verde 3 routes Muay mana 3 routes Kujánek 3 routes Rosnička 3 routes Kotlík 2 routes Keson 2 routes Předskalí blíženců 2 routes Křišťálová stěna 2 routes Tallingrad 2 routes Jidáš 2 routes Ikaros 2 routes Hadice 2 routes Roláda 2 routes Kalendárium 2 routes Kvočna 2 routes Šakal 2 routes Mafián 2 routes Soumar 2 routes Bizon 2 routes Vážky 2 routes Kačer 2 routes Red house 2 routes Ministrant 2 routes Čistírna 2 routes Panenka 2 routes Tlustínek 2 routes Neznámá 2 routes Dírovec 2 routes Předhradí 2 routes Okupant 2 routes Sedící býk - předskalí 2 routes Flečr 2 routes Orloj 2 routes Bobřík 1 route Mísa 1 route Masiv pod Pětichlapkou 1 route Arkády 1 route Bigos 1 route Předskalí Golema 1 route Paraple 1 route Felix 1 route Gabion 1 route Podkova 1 route Richard 1 route Masiv nad schůdky 1 route Hnízdo 1 route Rudý koutek 1 route Prst 1 route Vajíčko 1 route Močál 1 route Orionka 1 route Luna 1 route Pajcr 1 route Lampión 1 route Základní kámen 1 route Torpédo 1 route Hmyzolap 1 route
6
Rudý koutek
Right of the corner, wall diagonally right to bh. and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sedící býk
Via rounded holds over the overhang to the 1st ring. Through cracks to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Sedící býk
Wall to the ring and diagonally left into the chimney and by standing up to the ledge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sedící býk - předskalí
Through cracks left of the edge (hourglass) to the 1st ring. Diagonally right to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Sedící býk - předskalí
In the right part of the S wall over 2 rings to a small ledge. To the right past the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Segal
In the left part of the left wall via a crack corner to the ledge to the 1st bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Segal
In the left edge briefly by stemming, up a crack to the ledge, right past the edge onto a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Segal
In the left part of the wall via a chimney up to the ledge. Right into a narrow side wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Segal
In the left part of the right side wall briefly via a chimney to the ledge, along it left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Segal
Through the middle of the valley wall directly to the 1st ring of the route 'Run Him Down… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Segal
Up the chimney of the route "Dašaša" to the ledge, along it left to a small corner and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Sitatunga
Up the wall right of the chimney to the 1st and 2nd rings. Left with a mantle behind the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Stinné masivy
Via an oblique crack to the ledge. Via a hand crack over the ring into the chimney and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Stinné masivy
Briefly via the right side wall and left over the edge into a hole. Ascend via the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Strážce Radnice
In the middle of the left upper wall into a hole and to the ring. Via the wall to the… Fixed belay
7
Strážce Radnice
From the left, along the left valley edge, via the wall to the ledge towards the ring and… Fixed belay
7/7+
Svojsíkův průlez
In the right part of the valley wall, left of the bivouac, via an overhanging wall to the… Fixed belay
9
Svojsíkův průlez
Overhang in the left part of the cave with a crawl-through, overhang and crack to the 1st… Fixed belay
7-/7
Svojsíkův průlez
Right of the crack with the cave, via an overhanging wall along the small crack to the… Fixed belay
6
Svojsíkův průlez
In the NW wall by crack through a hole to the ring. By wall to the bolt hanger and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Svojsíkův průlez
Directly from the bivouac via an overhanging wall diagonally right, higher up along the… Fixed belay
7-/7
Svojsíkův průlez
By crack through the cave into the chapel below the roof. By wall into the roof to the… Fixed belay
9
Svojsíkův průlez
Left of the crack with the cave, by wall to the 1st ring, by roof crack into a large… Fixed belay
9
Šachovnice
Via the "Small Chess Move" route to the ring. Then directly by wall over another 1st ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Šachovnice
Via the Rošáda route to the ring. From there, right via crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Šachovnice
Via the "Butter Chess Move" route to the ring. Right and by a layback between edges to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Šachovnice
By the right upland wall over a bolt hanger to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
9
Šupináč
From the block into the cave, in it right to the overhanging crack. Through it over holes… Fixed belay
6
Tamburína
In the right part of the upper wall from the terrace, by wall over the 1st ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Tamburína
From the shelf via a crack over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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