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Climbing at Kokořín Valley

1140 routes
9 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínský důl is the main valley of the Kokořín region below Kokořín castle and offers more than 1,100 routes. The crags are grouped by village and side valley – near Kokořín and Hradsko, Lhotka and Štampach, Vojtěchov, in Kočičina and Vrbodol, near Harasov, Hlučov and in Močidla. There are vertical walls and overhangs with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 10.

Part of Kokořín region, Kokořín Valley has 1140 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Overhang.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Hefaistos
From the foreland right through the wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hefaistos
From the foreland to the S edge and over K n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Rejžáček
By chimney over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Vrátný
By opposition chimney between the "Labyrinth" and "Gatekeeper" towers n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Vrátný
By jumping from the "Labyrinth" tower n. v. Also possible in the opposite direction from… Rock Climbing
3
Vrátný
By chimney from the west n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Vrátný
From the valley along the gully with a crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Šlaufek
From the "Normal Route" ledge, directly up the recess n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Dvojitá
Up the chimney between the towers to a ledge, then straight up the chimney or left along… Rock Climbing
4
Věž v koutě
Up the east face via K to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Věž v koutě
Through the north chimney between the massif and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
9
Herkules
Left of the SW edge, up the face and diagonally left along the sloping ledge to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Herkules
In the middle of the West face, build up and climb the face to the 1st bolt (K). Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Herkules
In the left part of the lower wall, via 2 bolts (K) directly into the crack and up it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Herkules
Up the left part of the NW face via a bolt (K) and top out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Herkules
Up the NW face to the notch, onto the West edge and top out. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Herkules
4 m to the right of the route "Bambulárna", up the face via 3 bolts (K) and top out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Herkules
Up the NW face to the notch, left into the small crack and top out. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Mefistofeles
Up the left part of the South face via 2 bolts (K) and top out. Rock Climbing
9
Mefistofeles
In the right part of the South face, left of the route "Satanic Verses", up the face via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Mefistofeles
In the left part of the lower wall, up to the 1st bolt (K). Straight to the 2nd bolt (K),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Mefistofeles
Step across from the block at the NE edge onto the edge to the 1st bolt (K) of the "Devil… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Mefistofeles
Climb the crack-chimney of the "Okružení" route to the balcony (sling), left to a bolt (K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Mefistofeles
Up the middle of the lower wall via 2 bolts (K) and top out. Rock Climbing
5
Mefistofeles
Up the crack in the lower wall to the notch and from the right to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Mefistofeles
Up the steep face and top out. Rock Climbing
2
Mefistofeles
Climb the crack-chimney in the right part of the lower wall to the balcony, traverse… Rock Climbing
6-
Čertova stěna
Up the wall to the right of the "Časy se mění" route, over 2 bolts, not topped out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Čertova stěna
Up the wall to the left of the "Časy se mění" route, over 2 bolts upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
10
Čertova stěna
Start 3m to the right of the "Jalová cesta" crack, directly up the wall (2 rings) to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1

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