Part of Jižní prostor, Kozí (JV) pilíře has 17 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3 to 8+/9-. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route on sun, Traditional Climbing, Friends.
Rules
The permit applies to sport climbing. It does not apply to bouldering, drytooling, slackline and highline. - access only via hiking trails or marked access paths - a detailed description of the paths is in a measure of general nature - report bird nesting to the rock manager - climbing only in daylight - prohibition of damaging and changing the surface of rocks - prohibition of using protection that damages the rock - prohibition of using winter climbing equipment - prohibition of rappelling using trees and bushes, prohibition of interfering with vegetation and loosening stones - prohibition of first ascents without the consent of the rock manager, who will negotiate consent with the nature protection body OVK: - prohibition of creating routes from above without prior OVK consent - prohibition of using rocks and summit books for commercial purposes; any intention must be consulted with the manager and OVK
Nature protection: climbing allowed year-round. NPR Bořeň - OOP 2021-2030, OP CHKO České středohoří authority.
Bořeň National Nature Reserve – climb only on permitted rocks and respect any seasonal closures. Current status in the ČHS crag database.
The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.
7+
Přenýtovaná
Up the valley wall over 5 bolts to the top. Belaying set up from above. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Kozí
Up the prominent crack in the center of the pillar about 5 m to a small platform. The… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Malá dvojspára
By a double crack upwards on the wall (group) to its end. Then by a left crack (wedge) to… Rock Climbing Route on sun
3
Nedělní
N is from the other (right) side of the small pillar. By corner crack to the platform and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
4
Sokolík
By a chimney crack (behind the tree) to the platform, upwards right or vertically. Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Naležato
At the very end of the wall by a crack to the platform (group). By a chimney corner… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6
Šílená kláda
Along the pillar (group, rivet), then over the pulpit, or vertically. Rock Climbing Route on sun
3
Stará cesta
A distinct corner formed by the right-hand (lower) pillar on its left side. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Komínová
By chimney in the left side wall of the pillar to its top. Then by a wall as 'Sunday'. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4+
Májová
A crack runs to the left of the prominent corner. Up it to the sloping platform and over… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Vánoční
To the right of the Kapsář route up a smooth corner, higher up a crack to a platform and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
7-
Falešná SVíčková
Up the pillar to the left of the 'Májové' corner along a fine crack over rock and bolt to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
5
Kapsář
About 3 m to the right of 'Kozí', up the crack (rock) onto the sloping platform, from… Rock Climbing Route on sun
8+/9-
Edovo bludné kroky
Up the wall of the small pillar, to the right of Kozí c. Rock Climbing Route on sun
6-
Všechno je jinak
Easy terrain to the terrace below the left (higher) pillar. Up the blunt edge to the bolt… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5+
Náhorní
Up the steep wall of the left pillar along the crack (rock) briefly to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun