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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

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Pupek
Rock Climbing
?
Pupek
Rock Climbing
3
Zub
Along the edge to the right of the Mravenčí route to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Zub
Rock Climbing
3
Kaňkovská stěna
Left from the edge into a small wall, from its middle right to the edge and along it to… Rock Climbing
5
Kaňkovská stěna
From the small saddle, traverse about 6m right and up a crack. Rock Climbing
5
Kaňkovská stěna
Up a large corner for about 10 m. 8 m overhanging crack (most difficult part) and then… Rock Climbing
4
Kaňkovská stěna
On the left edge of the wall, start into a crack (grass, bushes) and up it for about 10m… Rock Climbing
3
Kaňkovská stěna
Right of the large corner, directly along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Nůž
Up the narrow valley wall along small cracks directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4+
Trosky
Start completely from the left valley side onto a grassy platform. From there, 6m up an… Rock Climbing
5
Nůž
Along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Trosky
Start as 'Edge' onto the fore-rock and 3m up along the edge. Traverse 1m down and up into… Rock Climbing
5
Trosky
Via a corner crack in the middle of the valley wall to the Trosky saddle. Rock Climbing
1
Trosky
Middle of a short plateau wall. Rock Climbing
4
Dolomity
Start from the left side of the last needle (first from the bottom of the canyon). First… Rock Climbing
3
Trosky
From the valley side, easily onto the fore-rock and along the edge easily to the summit.… Rock Climbing
3
Dolomity
From the bottom of the canyon to the ridge, along which ascend as far as possible to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Dolomity
Start into the crack between 'Aragon' and another tower downwards. About 5m over wedged… Rock Climbing
4+
Dolomity
Up a crack in the left half of the wall closing off the canyon for about 15m (grass).… Rock Climbing
5-
Dolomity
Vertical slender tower at the end of the right jaw of the canyon. Start on the edge… Rock Climbing
4
Dolomity
Under the rock block, in a shallow corner, widening upwards, up a chimney for about 8m,… Rock Climbing
2
Velká síň
Through an overgrown hollow separating the Pulpit from the Middle Pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Dolomity
During the descent below the 'Leona' tower, there's a side couloir on the right. From it,… Rock Climbing
4+
Dolomity
Up a grassy chimney on the right side of the penultimate needle (second from bottom) to a… Rock Climbing
4
Velká síň
To the plateau like the 'Great Corner' route, or via steps under the Middle Pillar and… Rock Climbing
4
Trojzubec
Up the small corner in the left edge of the small wall to the ridge of the pillar. Rock Climbing
4
Velká síň
The start is approximately right of the amphitheater, traversing under the narrow pillar,… Rock Climbing
3
Trojzubec
Up the right part of the small wall into the corner and through it to the top. Rock Climbing
3+
Trojzubec
Briefly like the 'Old Route', higher up left onto the pillar. Rock Climbing

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