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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

4+
Molo
Right of the small cave, up the wall (3 bolts) traversing towards the short section… Rock Climbing
5
Molo
Between the Pier and the Schooner, up an overhanging short wall (drilled hook) to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Molo
Start in the lowest part of the wall. Left of the bivouac, up the rounded edge and higher… Rock Climbing
4-
Molo
Through the corner from the bivouac to the large plateau (1st belay). Up into a prominent… Rock Climbing
3
Molo
From the large plateau above the bivouac, up the right edge of the south wall (2 drilled… Rock Climbing
4-
Maják
Up the middle of the wall (2 drilled hooks) to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Maják
Right of the 'Cannon Pipe' chimney, up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Maják
From the block located at the left edge of the valley wall, to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Maják
Through the chimney in the left, side wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Maják
Up the left part of the valley wall (drilled hooks) to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Maják
Along the right edge over 3 drilled hooks to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Maják
Up the edge to the left of the Cannon Pipe. Secured with slings. This route is dedicated… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Škuner
Along the right valley edge (or along the edge) over 3 drilled hooks to a crack and up it… Rock Climbing
5
Škuner
From the slope (NW) right to the left edge of the 1st terrace of the 'Left Valley Way'.… Rock Climbing
6
Škuner
From the plateau side from the (East) up the wall, higher up along the (East) edge over 4… Rock Climbing
4
Škuner
Middle of the valley wall along inclined slabs, past 2 drilled hooks to the 2nd terrace,… Rock Climbing
4+
Škuner
From the valley side to the terrace, and from there right to the second terrace. Up the… Rock Climbing
4+
Škuner
Right part of the plateau wall briefly to the (West) edge and up it to the summit (2… Rock Climbing
7
Škuner
Up the wall between the 'Eastern' and 'Western' routes directly above the belay bolt to a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4
Pravá stěna nebes
Up the prominent pillar, which forms the left rib of the Sky Wall (2 bolts, piton). Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +3
5
Pravá stěna nebes
The entry is about 6m from the left edge of the Sky Wall. Directly up the wall over 3… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +3
5
Pravá stěna nebes
Above the first bolt as the Left Míra's route. Higher up directly on the wall (2 bolts),… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +3
5
Pravá stěna nebes
The route leads through the longest part of the wall, to the right of other routes. Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
5+
Levá stěna nebes
Start from the right part of the terrace, 6m to the right of the UFO route, through a… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +2
6-
Levá stěna nebes
From the left edge of the terrace, up a corner and the wall to the belay station (L1 – 8m… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +2
5-
Levá stěna nebes
The ascent leads roughly through the middle of the wall over the "cross" (a horizontal… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +3
5
Štítek
In the right part of the wall, over a small overhang into a rounded niche (protection).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Štítek
Through the left part of the wall along slabs, which are bordered by a slightly shallow… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6+
Bašta
The route starts in the middle of the wall, along a closed crack below a small overhang … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4+
Bašta
In the right part of the valley wall, diagonally left onto a ledge. Higher up, along the… Rock Climbing

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