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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

6-
Bílá stěna
Up the wall to the right to the edge. Along the edge (bolt) to the platform. From there… Rock Climbing
3
Bílá stěna
The route is entirely left in the gully. Over a wedged boulder to a slab and along it… Rock Climbing
?
Bílá stěna
Briefly above the start, traverse right into the wall, up to below the overhanging crack.… Rock Climbing
6+
Bílá stěna
The start of the route is like "Carevna". After a few meters, traverse left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5-
Skautská věž (Větrná)
The route roughly follows the gully (W) of the wall. The start is about 10 m from the (S)… Rock Climbing
3
Skautská věž (Větrná)
Through a prominent corner in the right part of the plateau wall below a wedged boulder.… Rock Climbing
2
Skautská věž (Větrná)
The route is entirely to the left (with your back to the Bishop's Chair) and always along… Rock Climbing
4-
Taneční sál (Západní amfiteátr)
The right part of the Dance Hall is divided by a massive chimney, which is interrupted… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Taneční sál (Západní amfiteátr)
To the right of the leaning pillar is a smooth and overhanging crack. Up the crack with… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
3
Západní hradba
Up the crack in the middle of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Zobák
Start to the left of the edge into a vertical, brittle wall and up it to a large balcony.… Rock Climbing
4
Vyhlídková skála
Up the middle of the E wall along a crack under the overhang. Right into the corner crack… Rock Climbing
5
Západní hradba
Up the wall to the right of the crack and over the ring. Rock Climbing
5
Vyhlídková skála
The ascent follows the SW edge. Approach to the right of the edge, following a path to a… Rock Climbing
4
Vyhlídková skála
Approach in the middle of the wall between the SW edge and the chimney. Up the wall into… Rock Climbing
3
Vyhlídková skála
Approach in the S wall near the SE edge. Diagonally up a small wall over the edge into a… Rock Climbing
5
Vyhlídková skála
Up the middle of the wall to the right of the chimney directly onto a step (piton). From… Rock Climbing
5
Větrná skála
Over the bivouac overhang from the left to the balcony. Rock Climbing
3
Větrná skála
Approach below the NE edge along an inclined ledge under the overhang. Over it into the… Rock Climbing
6
Větrná skála
Up the NE edge over 3 large overhangs directly into a horizontal notch (piton). Over the… Rock Climbing
?
Větrná skála
Up the overhanging small wall to the left of the bivouac to a large balcony. From there,… Rock Climbing
4
Větrná skála
Up the small wall to the right of the corner to a large balcony, from there into the… Rock Climbing
4
Větrná skála
Up the edge to the left of the chimney onto the slab, from there left behind the edge and… Rock Climbing
12
Větrná skála
Up the corner and chimney between the middle and main summit directly upwards. Rock Climbing
5+
Větrná skála
Up the corner over the overhang to the balcony and up the small wall to the summit of the… Rock Climbing
2+/3-
Větrná skála
Approach as for Sunday Edge, traverse diagonally right under the slab into the corner and… Rock Climbing
2
Střední hradba
Up the wall to the protruding boulder and around it to the left, then upwards. Rock Climbing
2
Větrná skála
Along the ridge from the south over the small and middle tower upwards. Rock Climbing
2+/3-
Střední hradba
Up the slab-like wall diagonally left to the edge and via that upwards. Rock Climbing
4
Střední hradba
Up the slab along the right edge of the Central Wall to the summit (ring). Rock Climbing

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