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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

4
Ještěrka
To the left of the edge via a smooth slab (3 bh and rivet) to the lowering ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Stěna vodopádu
To the right of 'Tovární komín' (Factory Chimney) through corners behind the small tower … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
7+
Výří věže - velký výr
From the left corner to the right into the right corner, then to the end and traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
3+
Výří věže - velký výr
To the right of the bivouac over ledges via a crack and chimney to a small tower, then… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
4
Malý sokol
From the right side of the gorge over steps and a corner crack to the balcony (rivet),… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
3+
Malý sokol
Along the edge of the pillar directly n. t. (own protection, brittle!!!) Rock Climbing Friends Route on sun +1
5
Velký sokol
Up the wall to the right of Pekárna (Bakery) under the curved crack and through it,… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
?
Vodopády v průčelské rokli
Up the frozen Vyří Waterfall over an ice step, through the forest into a small gully, and… Route in shadow Laid wall
3+
Patník
Up the crack in the right part of the wall onto the pillar. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Patník
Along the left crack (2 pitons/bolts) onto the pillar to the bolt hanger. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
3
Poustevníček
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Parník
Up the left part of the wall below a smooth slab, then up the left part of the slab below… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
1
Poustevníček
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Poustevníček
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3-
Poustevníček
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Poustevníček
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Poustevníček
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Vyhlídka
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Vyhlídka
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3+
Poustevníček
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
1
Poustevníček
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4
Vyhlídka
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Vyhlídka
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3-
Vyhlídka
Via a prominent edge on the left side of the valley wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Vyhlídka
Approximately through the middle of the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Východní stěna
The massive (E) wall forms prominent rock couloirs in its left part. Through them,… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6-
Východní stěna
Up the left pillar of the couloirs to the top. (4 bolts). Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5-
Východní stěna
Where the 'Kramlovaná cesta' begins to be constrained by walls, there is a yellow, broken… Rock Climbing
5
Skalní pilíř
Through the indentation of the central wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Skalní pilíř
In the right part of the wall, over the overhang into a niche, then through an… Rock Climbing

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