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Climbing at Libušina stěna

19 routes
4-–7-/7 grades

Part of Rájecké údolí, Libušina stěna has 19 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 4- to 7-/7. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Danger.

Rules

Nature protection: Tower and surroundings closed from February 22 to June 30 due to peregrine falcon nesting.

OVK: Use magnesium according to sandstone rules, first ascents only with the consent of the administrator.

This sector is closed in spring for nesting birds. Check the current dates in the ČHS crag database.

Ostříží stěny and the Rájec valley are closed in spring for nesting birds. Check the current dates in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.80620, 14.01701

7-/7
Libušina stěna
Left of the Rusty Crack by the wall with small sharp holds (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Libušina stěna
By the crack in the S wall to its end and higher left by the friable wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Libušina stěna
By the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Libušina stěna
From the large plateau, over the overhang into the wall and up it past a large hole and a… Rock Climbing
4+
Libušina stěna
From N from a large plateau to the edge and along it over a large spire and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Libušina stěna
From N from a large grassy plateau, enter the chimney and up its right part of the wall… Rock Climbing
6
Libušina stěna
In the valley face to the right of the left edge, up the wall over 3 K directly to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Libušina stěna
Up the middle of the S wall over 3 bolts, later into the route "Up into the fairy tale", … Rock Climbing
5
Libušina stěna
Left of the Rusty Crack route by a wide crack/chimney to a ledge to a bolt. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Libušina stěna
Right in the N wall, to the right past the edge to the 1st bolt. Along the edge into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Libušina stěna
Right in the N wall into holes and by a fine crack to the 1st bolt. To the right into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Libušina stěna
Right in the South face via a chimney and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Libušina stěna
Right in the South face via a slanting crack to the spire. Left crack to K and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Libušina stěna
Up the middle of the South face to 1st K. Up the wall through the hole to 2nd K and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Libušina stěna
Right in the valley face briefly to 1st K. Short crack to the ledge, right to the edge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Libušina stěna
By the old route to the ramp, from there through 2 holes into the crack and to its end.… Rock Climbing
5+
Libušina stěna
Along the edge left of the Chimney over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Libušina stěna
Up the middle of the valley face over the overhang to the ramp and along it right into… Rock Climbing
5
Libušina stěna
In the right part of the valley face into the crack, through it into the hole, and left… Rock Climbing

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