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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

2+
Čihadlo
On the left, in the upper wall, a slab-like wall n. v.
2+
Čihadlo
4-
2
Čihadlo
Through the narrow NE wall, n. v. (not viable/ no translation possible as it seems to be…
7
Zdislavská
In the middle of the valley wall through cracks and a crack going to the right to the E… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Velká věž
In the middle of the upper (NW) wall through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Velká věž
Through the middle chimney to the ledge, along the ledge to the right into the recess and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Velká věž
Start from the passage (left of Jankovitá route) through the wall and corner to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Velká věž
From the upper side, through the middle of the pillar of the right tower, through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Velká věž
Along the right upper edge (slings) and to the right to the 2nd ring of Jankovitá route.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Velká věž
From the valley, via a yellow fragile corner along the crack to the ring and right onto a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Velká věž
corner crack from the right to the foothills and then as in the original route Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Velká věž
Start with the old valley route to the balcony, left up through the hole and right under… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Velká věž
Corner crack from the left to the foothills of the valley wall. Traverse right into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Velká věž
Left of the Old Valley Route, through the middle of the smooth red wall into a fragmented… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Velká věž
Through cracks directly to the beginning of the chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Velká věž
From the upper side, along the left shoulder to below the east wall. First in the middle,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Velká věž
Start with the route 'Cesta pro Tádu' to the 1st ring. From there, right into the recess… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Velká věž
Start in the right part of the valley wall, over the 'hourglass' and spike to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Velká věž
From the start of Hladká cesta (Smooth Route), left around the corner and along the edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
1
Velká věž
Through a crack in the NW wall to the left chimney and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Malá věž
To the right of the Normální cesta (Normal Route) via the small wall and crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mezistěna
From the passage through the crack to the top of the dividing wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Malá věž
Corner crack over the belly to the step and to the top Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Malá věž
Via the crack in the slab to the ring and slightly to the left to the ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Malá věž
From the upland side at the right (NW) corner (slings) diagonally right across the W wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Malá věž
In the left part of the valley wall, through a corner recess over the ring to the S… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Malá věž
Start up the wall (left from route Jižní kout) slightly to the left to the ring on the SW… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Malá věž
Up the small wall to the 1st ring of the Cosa Nostra route to the right to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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