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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

6
Malá věž
To the right of the Jižní kout route, along the edge of the corner to the spike (loop).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Malá věž
Up the small wall to the 1st ring of the Cosa Nostra route to the right to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Malá věž
Along the left edge of the chimney directly to K. Then straight (dBh) over a slight… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Malá věž
Through the deep chimney in the middle of the valley wall over the ring and overhang to… Rock Climbing Vertical wall Spare Route
6
Malá věž
From the ring to the left to the edge and along it under the overhang. From the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Malá věž
Through the crack in the right part of the valley wall to the ring, via the crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Malá věž
Between the Pandžábská hrana and Žlutá spára routes, directly over two rings, slightly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Malá věž
To the left of Žlutá spára, up the wall along small ledges to the 1st ring. Directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Malá věž
Along the crack on the left into the corner to the 1st ring. Up to the ledge and via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Malá věž
Up the left eastern edge over 3 rings to the balcony and via the corner crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Malá věž
From the upland side with the S corner, diagonally left with a crack behind the corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Malá věž
From the ring, to the left via an overhanging crack (can be climbed using holds on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Malá věž
In the middle part, through the recess directly under the abseil point to the abseil… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Vyhlídková (JZ věž)
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Malá věž
To the right of the S corner, through a corner recess (slings) and an overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Vyhlídková (JZ věž)
By crack in the middle of the valley wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Střelnice
Via 5 rings, n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Střelnice
By crack over 4 rings to the last ring of the Krasavice route. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Střelnice
Rock Climbing
7/7+
Střelnice
Up the wall via 4 rings and 1 bolt, n. v. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Střelnice
Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Střelnice
Via 5 rings, n. v. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Střelnice
Up the smooth corner over 4 bolts (N. V.). Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Střelnice
Up the wall over 4 bolts (N. V.). Rock Climbing
6
Střelnice
Rock Climbing
4
Střelnice
Rock Climbing
6
Střelnice
Rock Climbing
4+
Střelnice
Rock Climbing
6
Střelnice
start on route no. 27 and then from the left along the edge Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Střelnice
To the right of the Ulmanovka route, over 5 bolts (N. V.). Rock Climbing

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