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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

6
Masokombinát
Directly up the smooth slab (2 bh) in the left part of the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Štěpánův masiv
Upwards along the left part of the wall... Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Štěpánův masiv
Directly upwards along the wall between the massifs near the elm tree (2 bh). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Štěpánův masiv
Directly upwards in the front part of the massif (2 bh). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Masokombinát
In the right part of the wall between the massifs and the edge (2 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Masokombinát
Up the wall over the overhang and to the right next to the prominent crack to the summit … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Masokombinát
Up the wall next to the left edge directly over the overhang and then along the edge n. v… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
3
Prostřeďák
Up the right part of the ridge leading to the birch tree (2 bh). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Masokombinát
Directly upwards along the wall and an indistinct edge (2 bh) to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Masokombinát
Directly upwards in the right part of the wall with an unpleasant start (2 bh). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Prostřeďák
Along the ridge, first a vertical wall from the left, then directly upwards to the birch… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Masokombinát
Up the wall under the overhang (breakable) to the bh and over the overhang slightly from… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6+
Prostřeďák
Directly upwards in the left part of the wall from the ledge under the birch tree (2 bh). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-
Kamzičí latrína
Upwards over a large overhang from the right, along the edge (2 bh). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7
Prostřeďák
Directly upwards through the center of the smooth wall from the ledge under the birch… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Prostřeďák
Directly up the wall to the left of the gully (3 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kamzičí latrína
Upwards over a slight overhang from the right (2 bh). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kamzičí latrína
Directly upwards across the ledge, up a smooth summit wall (2 bh). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kamzičí latrína
Slightly from the right upwards across the ledge (2 bh) Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kamzičí latrína
Next to the prominent gully (2 bh) straight up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Koňadrova vyhlídka
Straight up over the slight overhang (3 bh) to the mezzanine. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Koňadrova vyhlídka
Over large holds to the ledge and from there up the smooth corner (3 bh) straight up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Koňadrova vyhlídka
Around the indistinct edge (3 bh) straight up to the mezzanine. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Koňadrova vyhlídka
In the left face around the corner straight up (3 bh) to the mezzanine. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Koňadrova vyhlídka
Diagonally near the left edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4
Koňadrova vyhlídka
Up the prominent notch (2 bh) straight up to the mezzanine. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Koňadrova vyhlídka
Up the smooth slab (bh), then left or right into the routes 'Každá za tisíc' or 'Je to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Koňadrova vyhlídka
Far right, from the raised floor, straight up over the overhang (2bh). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Koňadrova vyhlídka
Up the edge straight up (3 bh) to the mezzanine. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Valoun
In the right part of the uphill face, up the chimney and around the rappel station, a… Rock Climbing

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