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Climbing at Malá jehla

9 routes
2+–6- grades

Part of Velké stěny, Malá jehla has 9 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 6-. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay.

Rules

- Do not remove stones, vegetation and otherwise interfere with vegetation on the rocks - Do not disturb nesting birds, use marked tourist routes and access paths to access the rocks - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight - Prohibition of using magnesium and other chemical agents - Prohibition of damaging and changing the surface of the rocks, especially by improper handling of the rope, using metal belay devices, etc. - First ascents are prohibited

Nature protection: climbing allowed year-round, marked routes are permanently prohibited. Nature Protection Documents: PR Tiské stěny-OOP 2022-2027, Prohibited routes, Rocks with the possibility of completing first ascents, OP CHKO Labské Pískovce authority.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.78582, 14.02828

3
Malá jehla
At the left edge of the valley's S wall, up to the ledge and along it to the right into a… Rock Climbing
3
Malá jehla
Along the E edge to the plateau and left to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Malá jehla
Up the left part of the N wall over bolt and further along the overhanging edge to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Malá jehla
Up the center of the S wall to the ledge and by the "Valley Route" to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Malá jehla
Up the center of the north wall to the bolt, then up the wall and overhanging pillar to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4+
Malá jehla
Via the W edge over two overhangs directly to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Malá jehla
Via the SE wall over bolt to the ledge and by the Old Route to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Malá jehla
To the left of the route Božský klid (Divine Peace) via the overhanging S edge over bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Malá jehla
From E through the crevice to the tower, then upwards and diagonally left to the top. Rock Climbing

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