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Climbing at Malé varhany

7 routes
2–5+ grades

Part of Západní prostor, Malé varhany has 7 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 5+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Friends, Fixed belay, Textile belay.

Rules

Nature protection: climbing allowed year-round. NPR Bořeň - OOP 2021-2030, OP CHKO České středohoří authority.

The permit applies to sport climbing. It does not apply to bouldering, drytooling, slackline and highline. - access only via hiking trails or marked access paths - a detailed description of the paths is in a measure of general nature - report bird nesting to the rock manager - climbing only in daylight - prohibition of damaging and changing the surface of rocks - prohibition of using protection that damages the rock - prohibition of using winter climbing equipment - prohibition of rappelling using trees and bushes, prohibition of interfering with vegetation and loosening stones - prohibition of first ascents without the consent of the rock manager, who will negotiate consent with the nature protection body OVK: - prohibition of creating routes from above without prior OVK consent - prohibition of using rocks and summit books for commercial purposes; any intention must be consulted with the manager and OVK

Nature protection: climbing allowed year-round. Decision 2015, OP CHKO České středohoří authority.

Parking

50.52984, 13.75883

4-
By corner right of the flat boulder to the top.
Rock Climbing
4+
Middle of the middle pillar over a rivet to the top.
Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
The entry is completely to the right via a fine crack.…
Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
From the platform to the N (clock) to the edge and along it…
Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
By crack in the left side wall of the Small Organ.
Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4+
N from a flat boulder. Up a right-angled corner to the top.
Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
5+
A bit left of 'Stolová' via a vertical crack (rivet), then…
Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends Fixed belay

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