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Climbing at Medusa

8 routes
2+–4+ grades

Part of Malé stěny, Medusa has 8 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 4+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing.

Rules

- Do not remove stones, vegetation and otherwise interfere with vegetation on the rocks - Do not disturb nesting birds, use marked tourist routes and access paths to access the rocks - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight - Prohibition of using magnesium and other chemical agents - Prohibition of damaging and changing the surface of the rocks, especially by improper handling of the rope, using metal belay devices, etc. - First ascents are prohibited

Nature protection: climbing allowed year-round, marked routes are permanently prohibited. Nature Protection Documents: PR Tiské stěny-OOP 2022-2027, Prohibited routes, Rocks with the possibility of completing first ascents, OP CHKO Labské Pískovce authority.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.78582, 14.02828

4-
Medusa
From the right to the edge. Left up into the cut and by a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Medusa
Crack through the center of the N wall to the niche and n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Medusa
On the right in the downhill E wall to K and higher by a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Medusa
From the right to the edge and higher into the cut. Along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Medusa
In the left part of the downhill E wall from the niche to the step. Wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Medusa
Corner in the SW wall to the ledge. Along it to the left to the crack and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Medusa
From W by a short wall to the ledge, traverse right to the large platform on the S side… Rock Climbing
4-
Medusa
On the right in the N wall over the ledge n. v. Rock Climbing

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