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Climbing at Moravian Sandstones

1524 routes
5 areas
2–11- grades

The Moravian Sandstones bring together the sandstone crags of eastern Moravia, mostly in the Zlín Region, in the ranges of the Western Carpathians: Chřiby, the Hostýn and Vsetín Hills, the Vizovice Highlands and the Javorníky on the border with Slovakia. Unlike the block sandstones of northern Bohemia, these rocks are built mainly of flysch deposits – as in the Hostýn-Vsetín Mountains, which the Bečva river divides into the lower Hostýn and higher Vsetín Hills, topped by Vysoká (1,024 m). The crags are scattered through dense forests, in Chřiby close to Buchlov castle and the ruins of Cimburk and Střílky.

The crags are mostly modest in size – a typical example is the freestanding Kozel in Chřiby, about 25 m high, with bolted routes from the east and west and harder boulder problems on the north side, surrounded by the Hradby boulder field. Climbing is both sport and trad, with fixed and textile protection. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions; check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association before visiting. The area is covered by the guidebook Moravské skály I. – Východní Morava (Skýpala and Wolf, 2018).

Part of Czech Republic, Moravian Sandstones has 1524 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11-. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Fixed belay.

Rules

The ČHS rules and those of the regional commission for the Moravian sandstones apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering the rock.

Moravian sandstone: no climbing from 1 January to 28 February (soft sandstone; OVK decision). Do not climb on wet rock. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

5
Hlavní kámen
Rock Climbing
5-
Hradby
Center of the Hradeb wall (ring) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
4+
Hradby
By a smooth wall at the right edge of Hradeb into crumbly holes, over them and onto a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
7
Hradby
Center of the small slab. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
5-
Pelcova plotna
By a small wall two meters to the right of the southeast edge of the slab. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
8-
Pelcova plotna
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
3+
Pelcova plotna
A distinctive pillar to the right of Standa's to a crack running to the right. To a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
7+
Pelcova plotna
To the right of the Hliněná route over the overhang (ring) onto a ledge and slab. Orig. V… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Pelcova plotna
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6+
Sousední
Right part of the south face over the overhang and recess and over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
5+
Sousední
Center of the south face under the overhang. Through an elongated hole and wall.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
5
Sousední
Left part of the south face under the overhang, over it and a wall with a shallow recess. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
4
Sousední
By a recess in the west face to the edge and to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6
Prcek
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
4+
Dunivá plotna
Via a system of shallow gullies to the right of the left edge of the slab to two holes.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6
Prcek
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
7
Prcek
Center of the south wall. J. Krčma, M. Zapalač, 1967, V A0 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
3
Dunivá plotna
Center of the south wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
3
Kohútik
Over a slight overhang on the right edge of the east face to a sloping ledge. Traverse… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
3
Kohútik
From the lowest point of the east face, over a conspicuous recess to a small ridge and up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
4
Kohútik
Up the large recess on the right edge of the West face, under the overhang, and through… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
5
Dvojitá věž
Between the chimneys, up the slightly overhanging face, through holes with natural… Rock Climbing
4
Dvojitá věž
Up the chimney on the East face, left into a gully. Rock Climbing
4-
Kohútik
Up the recess in the middle of the West face to a sloping ledge, then right under an… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
3+
Dvojitá věž
Rock Climbing
4
Dvojitá věž
Through the middle of the face, through a recess. Rock Climbing
3+
Dvojitá věž
Rock Climbing
3
Dvojitá věž
Rock Climbing
7
Dvojitá věž
Up the slab along the edge to the right of the chimney. Rock Climbing
4
Dvojitá věž
Up the right part of the West face to the edge. Rock Climbing

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