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Climbing at Moravian Sandstones

1524 routes
5 areas
2–11- grades

The Moravian Sandstones bring together the sandstone crags of eastern Moravia, mostly in the Zlín Region, in the ranges of the Western Carpathians: Chřiby, the Hostýn and Vsetín Hills, the Vizovice Highlands and the Javorníky on the border with Slovakia. Unlike the block sandstones of northern Bohemia, these rocks are built mainly of flysch deposits – as in the Hostýn-Vsetín Mountains, which the Bečva river divides into the lower Hostýn and higher Vsetín Hills, topped by Vysoká (1,024 m). The crags are scattered through dense forests, in Chřiby close to Buchlov castle and the ruins of Cimburk and Střílky.

The crags are mostly modest in size – a typical example is the freestanding Kozel in Chřiby, about 25 m high, with bolted routes from the east and west and harder boulder problems on the north side, surrounded by the Hradby boulder field. Climbing is both sport and trad, with fixed and textile protection. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions; check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association before visiting. The area is covered by the guidebook Moravské skály I. – Východní Morava (Skýpala and Wolf, 2018).

Part of Czech Republic, Moravian Sandstones has 1524 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11-. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Fixed belay.

Rules

The ČHS rules and those of the regional commission for the Moravian sandstones apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering the rock.

Moravian sandstone: no climbing from 1 January to 28 February (soft sandstone; OVK decision). Do not climb on wet rock. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

4+
Jarcovská kula
Through the center of the S wall. Belaying on the right in the ring of route no. 4. Rock Climbing
4+
Jarcovská kula
Through the middle of the down wall, over a slightly left-leaning overhanging wall below… Rock Climbing
3
Jarcovská kula
By an inclined slab under the valley wall to the right around the corner, and along… Rock Climbing
3
Jarcovská kula
Through the middle or from the left of the upper wall. Rock Climbing
2
Havranka
Rock Climbing
3
Havranka
Rock Climbing
3
Havranka
Rock Climbing
6-
Havranka
Start at the entrance to the gorge. Overhang to the bolt and over the oblique ledge, face… Rock Climbing
6
Havranka
Rock Climbing
6+
Havranka
Rock Climbing
4
Havranka
Rounded corner and chimney. Rock Climbing
5
Havranka
Rock Climbing
5
Havranka
Face to the bolt, over the overhang to the niche and crack. Rock Climbing
6
Havranka
Directly from under the roof. Rock Climbing
4
Havranka
Articulated corner into the chimney and corner. Rock Climbing
3
Havranka
Laid-back corner in the middle of the fore-rock. Rock Climbing
3
Havranka
Distinct corner on the left side of the fore-rock and over the overhang. Rock Climbing
5
Gavendova skála
Slab across the piton in the South face. Rock Climbing
?
Vodova skála
Up the wall to the left of the route Lack of Invention through a bolt directly up to the… Rock Climbing
6
Čertovy skály u Lidečka
From under the overhang straight to the ring. Rock Climbing
5
Čertovy skály u Lidečka
Left over a small overhang (bolt). Rock Climbing
5
Kolébka
Rock Climbing
5-
Kolébka
Rock Climbing
8-
Kolébka
Z. Čepela, 1970, VI- A0, RP S. Miloš Rock Climbing
7+
Kolébka
Z. Čepela, 1969, VI A0 Rock Climbing
5
Kolébka
Z. Záboj, L. Bláha, D. Fleisnerová Rock Climbing
7+
Kolébka
L. Skalický, P. Jursa, J. Jursa, 1973, VI A0 Rock Climbing
5
Kolébka
Rock Climbing
3
Plochá
Rock Climbing
6
Plochá - náhorní stěna
Short right edge of Ploché (circle). Rock Climbing

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