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Climbing at Moravian Karst

1344 routes
8 areas
2+–12 grades

The Moravian Karst is a limestone protected landscape area north of Brno near Blansko, covering about 92 km². The landscape is made of gorges, rock walls and around 1,100 caves and abysses; five cave systems are open to the public, among them the Punkva Caves discovered by Karel Absolon. The best-known feature is the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, formed when the roof of a cave chamber collapsed, where the Punkva river disappears underground. Marked hiking and cycling trails cross the area.

Climbing is concentrated on the rock walls of the valleys; the best known is Holštejn, with overhanging and vertical walls, often with long run-outs, and hundreds of boulder problems – it is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic. The limestone can be quite slippery and needs precise footwork and strong fingers; some easier routes are polished and sparsely bolted, so Holštejn is not ideal for complete beginners. The whole area is protected and some crags are restricted – check current rules with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the Moravian Karst PLA administration before visiting.

Part of South Moravia, Moravian Karst has 1344 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

At Holštejn, climbing out onto the top of the cliffs is banned.

Moravian Karst PLA – climbing only on permitted rocks. Some crags may be climbed only in the second half of the year; details in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

4
Modrý rys
In the right part of the wall, up the corner to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4
Modrý rys
Original name Normal Route Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
6-
Modrý rys
To the right of the original start, over one protection to the ledge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+
Modrý rys
Description missing. Secured with stoppers Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5-
Modrý rys
Original classification IV+ A0 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
5+
Modrý rys
Original classification IVA0 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
7+
Modrý rys
with a direct exit 8+
7+
Modrý rys
At the top, through the middle of the overhanging belly to the anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Modrý rys
Original name Blue Crack. Original classification V A1 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
7-
Modrý rys
Same as Blue Lynx, but at the top over the small overhang and into the left corner. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-
Modrý rys
To the right of the corner up a vertical wall. At the top, under the overhang, traverse… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Modrý rys
Start variant. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Modrý rys
Original classification V A1 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Modrý rys
Original classification V A0 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
3
Modrý rys
To the left behind the tree, through the corner, up the broken small wall. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
3
Modrý rys
To the left behind the tree, up the broken small wall. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
8+
Modrý rys
Through the corner under the overhanging wall and over it to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Malé stěnky
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5-
Malé stěnky
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Býčí skála
To the right of Patagonia. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
3
Býčí skála
Start like Kout and halfway up the slab, traverse left through a break. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5+
Býčí skála
Through the right part of the slab to Platinum and up Golden Autumn Leaves. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
3
Býčí skála
Original name Wall Ascent Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
7+
Býčí skála
Original classification V A0 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Býčí skála
To the right up the wall from the corner of Platinum Variant II. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
4
Býčí skála
At the end of the traverse, do not continue right on the shelf, but directly straight up. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
7-
Býčí skála
Through the corner and then left of the edge up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-
Býčí skála
On the slab directly up. Left of the corner. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Býčí skála
On the slab to the right of the Sokol route, directly over two bolts to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Býčí skála
Through the corner and along the edge up. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5

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