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Climbing at Moravian Karst

1344 routes
8 areas
2+–12 grades

The Moravian Karst is a limestone protected landscape area north of Brno near Blansko, covering about 92 km². The landscape is made of gorges, rock walls and around 1,100 caves and abysses; five cave systems are open to the public, among them the Punkva Caves discovered by Karel Absolon. The best-known feature is the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, formed when the roof of a cave chamber collapsed, where the Punkva river disappears underground. Marked hiking and cycling trails cross the area.

Climbing is concentrated on the rock walls of the valleys; the best known is Holštejn, with overhanging and vertical walls, often with long run-outs, and hundreds of boulder problems – it is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic. The limestone can be quite slippery and needs precise footwork and strong fingers; some easier routes are polished and sparsely bolted, so Holštejn is not ideal for complete beginners. The whole area is protected and some crags are restricted – check current rules with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the Moravian Karst PLA administration before visiting.

Part of South Moravia, Moravian Karst has 1344 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

At Holštejn, climbing out onto the top of the cliffs is banned.

Moravian Karst PLA – climbing only on permitted rocks. Some crags may be climbed only in the second half of the year; details in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

8
Vaňousovy díry
Start boulder. At the top, through the hole to the rappel. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Vaňousovy díry
Technical route "without holds". Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Vaňousovy díry
From the third anchor of Epita to the rappel anchor of the No Entry to Epita route. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Vaňousovy díry
From the third bolt of Epita directly up. The large ledge on the right is neither taken… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Vaňousovy díry
From the second anchor of Epita to the second anchor of the route No Entry to Epita
9
Vaňousovy díry
Classic nine on Holštejn. Two harder sections and endurance at the top.
9
Vaňousovy díry
To the right of Boža's Crack. A delicate technical route on the slab. At the third bolt,…
9
Vaňousovy díry
Description missing. Defined steps below. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Vaňousovy díry
Boulder between the first and second bolt. Unprotected finish up the corner from the…
10-
Vaňousovy díry
Technical-power route. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Vaňousovy díry
Via a prominent crack in the left part of the massif. Boulder to the first bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
10-
Vaňousovy díry
Directly up the wall without an edge Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Vaňousovy díry
Technical corner. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+/10-
Vaňousovy díry
Technical route on holes and small ledges Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11-
Vaňousovy díry
Start via the Tears of Delight route to the 2nd bolt, from there slightly left over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
V buči
Start up the wall to the right of premature joy over two bolts to the rappel anchor. Up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Vaňousovy díry
Start via the route Starci na chmelu to the ledge, from there directly over two bolts up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Vaňousovy díry
Left edge of the massif. It is possible to clip a quickdraw from the adjacent route. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
4+
V buči
Start to the right of the route Pozor kozle in the wall behind the right edge, up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
V buči
Directly up the wall without edges. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
V buči
Start to the right of the route Pravá behind the edge, along the left edge of the side… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4+
V buči
To the left of the right wall. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
4+
V buči
Start to the right of the tree via a small wall to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5
V buči
Start to the right of the route Šovinistická diagonally left over the first bolt to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
V buči
Left edge (behind the tree) on a smaller massif to the right. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
4+
V buči
Up the middle of the vertical wall. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
6
V buči
On large holds in the right part of the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7
V buči
Start to the right of the route Komínkem up a slightly overhanging wall over two bolts to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-/9
V buči
To the right of San Diego, boulder over the first bolt and then up a vertical wall to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
V buči
Start to the right of the route Sevřené půlky on a smooth wall to a ledge, from the ledge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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