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Climbing at Na Tokáni

463 routes
95 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Na Tokáni is a Bohemian Switzerland National Park sector with more than 460 routes on 95 sandstone towers – for example Cipísek, the Great and Small Towers of the Rose Garden, Johanův kámen, Jedlový roh, Spálený hrad, Měsíční kámen, Křinický kostel, Ježibaba and Řádný občan. Vertical walls dominate, often in the shade, with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 9. Bohemian Switzerland NP, Na Tokáni has 463 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 95 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Cipísek 14 routes Velká věž růžové zahrady 13 routes Johanův kámen 11 routes Jedlový roh 11 routes Spálený hrad 10 routes Měsíční kámen 9 routes Malá věž růžové zahrady 8 routes Křinický kostel 8 routes Ježibaba 8 routes Řádný občan 8 routes Jižní kříž 7 routes Budha 7 routes Orlická věž 7 routes Big stone 7 routes Lidožrout 7 routes Pytlácký kámen 7 routes Strážce pětidomí 7 routes Křinický král 7 routes Čtyřlístek 7 routes Zelená věž 6 routes Želva 6 routes Březová věžička 6 routes Strážce mostků 6 routes Koňský zub (Sluneční hlava) 6 routes Vosa 6 routes Železná hlava 6 routes Šikmá věž 6 routes Poustevna 6 routes Křinická věž 6 routes Vosí věž 6 routes Krkonošská věž 5 routes Čertovo kvítko 5 routes Rejnok 5 routes Döbelnský erb 5 routes Letní kámen 5 routes Věž Pryskyřičného dolu 5 routes Starosta 5 routes Tokáňská věž 5 routes Barbucha 5 routes Špendlík 5 routes Postilión 5 routes Soudek (Beatricina věž) 5 routes Věž Tadeáše Haenkeho 5 routes Strážce jehly 5 routes Vlasatice 5 routes Schovaný kužel 5 routes Sýrový plátek 5 routes Zub 5 routes Jedový zub 5 routes Brontosaurus 5 routes Sršeň 4 routes Kobylka 4 routes Strážce masivu 4 routes Vlkodlak 4 routes Západní špička 4 routes Hrot 4 routes Střílna 4 routes Maják 4 routes Šakalova věž 4 routes Skylla 4 routes Strážce Pryskyřičného dolu 4 routes Alenčino zrcadlo 4 routes Ama Dablam 4 routes Bílinský kámen 4 routes Jelení věže 4 routes Kalich 4 routes Strážce Vosího vrchu 4 routes Věž Mostkového dolu 3 routes Melzerova jehla 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Sysifův kámen 3 routes Křesadlo 3 routes Hlava Růžové zahrady 3 routes Jednorožec 3 routes Bašta růžové zahrady 3 routes Dolní hrádek 3 routes Mamut 3 routes Zátiší 3 routes Klekánice 3 routes Kost 3 routes Tokáňská jehla 3 routes Požárník 2 routes Věž národního parku 2 routes Vyvolávač duchů 2 routes Černá paní (Dětská hlava) 2 routes Dži - dži 2 routes Zelený pepř 2 routes Lesovik 2 routes Verdon 2 routes Pytlák 2 routes Manželská věž 2 routes Černý kužel 1 route Jizerská věž 1 route Lebka 1 route Deštníková věž (Paraple) 1 route
4+
Lidožrout
To the left of the Old Route, climb the wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Šakalova věž
Up the upper edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Šakalova věž
To the left of the uphill edge, climb the wall via a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Šakalova věž
Climb the left downhill edge to the ring, then the wall and gully to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Strážce pětidomí
Up the SW edge over the ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce pětidomí
Up the N wall directly into the crack and take the Old route to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Strážce pětidomí
In the center of the N wall, up the smooth wall to the gully and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Strážce pětidomí
Completely on the left in the N wall, up the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Big stone
Up the edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Strážce pětidomí
Up the NW edge briefly to the ledge, traverse left and up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Big stone
Up the NE overhanging wall to the edge and left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Big stone
Through the center of the upper wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Big stone
On the right in the upper wall, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Big stone
On the left at the SW wall to a block and overhang into the crack. Up that to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Big stone
Up the SW wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Big stone
At the S edge, up the wall to the summit. (Also up the wall 1.5m to the right.) Rock Climbing
2
Sršeň
From the massif, overhang (jump - 1) to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Sršeň
From the massif, descend to the saddle and take the Old route to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Strážce Vosího vrchu
Take the SW edge to the footbridge and scale the face past the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce Vosího vrchu
Scale the South face to the footbridge, stemming and edging to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Strážce Vosího vrchu
From the East, take the gully and chimney with an overhanging start to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Sršeň
From the V chimney to the saddle. Old route to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Sršeň
From the NW, take the chimney to the saddle. Scale the face and ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Strážce Vosího vrchu
On the West face, take the chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Vosa
On the uphill face, take the massive stemming and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Vosa
To the right of the route "Žihadlo", take the edge to the ring and the gully above. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Vosa
Take the uphill edge and scale the face to the right past the ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Vosa
From the SW, take the crack to the ring and scale the face diagonally to the left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Vosa
On the left side of the downhill face, take the gully to the ring and go left into… Rock Climbing
3
Jedový zub
In the middle of the South face, follow the crack to the balcony and continue as … Rock Climbing

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