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Climbing at Na Tokáni

463 routes
95 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Na Tokáni is a Bohemian Switzerland National Park sector with more than 460 routes on 95 sandstone towers – for example Cipísek, the Great and Small Towers of the Rose Garden, Johanův kámen, Jedlový roh, Spálený hrad, Měsíční kámen, Křinický kostel, Ježibaba and Řádný občan. Vertical walls dominate, often in the shade, with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 9. Bohemian Switzerland NP, Na Tokáni has 463 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 95 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Cipísek 14 routes Velká věž růžové zahrady 13 routes Johanův kámen 11 routes Jedlový roh 11 routes Spálený hrad 10 routes Měsíční kámen 9 routes Malá věž růžové zahrady 8 routes Křinický kostel 8 routes Ježibaba 8 routes Řádný občan 8 routes Jižní kříž 7 routes Budha 7 routes Orlická věž 7 routes Big stone 7 routes Lidožrout 7 routes Pytlácký kámen 7 routes Strážce pětidomí 7 routes Křinický král 7 routes Čtyřlístek 7 routes Zelená věž 6 routes Želva 6 routes Březová věžička 6 routes Strážce mostků 6 routes Koňský zub (Sluneční hlava) 6 routes Vosa 6 routes Železná hlava 6 routes Šikmá věž 6 routes Poustevna 6 routes Křinická věž 6 routes Vosí věž 6 routes Krkonošská věž 5 routes Čertovo kvítko 5 routes Rejnok 5 routes Döbelnský erb 5 routes Letní kámen 5 routes Věž Pryskyřičného dolu 5 routes Starosta 5 routes Tokáňská věž 5 routes Barbucha 5 routes Špendlík 5 routes Postilión 5 routes Soudek (Beatricina věž) 5 routes Věž Tadeáše Haenkeho 5 routes Strážce jehly 5 routes Vlasatice 5 routes Schovaný kužel 5 routes Sýrový plátek 5 routes Zub 5 routes Jedový zub 5 routes Brontosaurus 5 routes Sršeň 4 routes Kobylka 4 routes Strážce masivu 4 routes Vlkodlak 4 routes Západní špička 4 routes Hrot 4 routes Střílna 4 routes Maják 4 routes Šakalova věž 4 routes Skylla 4 routes Strážce Pryskyřičného dolu 4 routes Alenčino zrcadlo 4 routes Ama Dablam 4 routes Bílinský kámen 4 routes Jelení věže 4 routes Kalich 4 routes Strážce Vosího vrchu 4 routes Věž Mostkového dolu 3 routes Melzerova jehla 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Sysifův kámen 3 routes Křesadlo 3 routes Hlava Růžové zahrady 3 routes Jednorožec 3 routes Bašta růžové zahrady 3 routes Dolní hrádek 3 routes Mamut 3 routes Zátiší 3 routes Klekánice 3 routes Kost 3 routes Tokáňská jehla 3 routes Požárník 2 routes Věž národního parku 2 routes Vyvolávač duchů 2 routes Černá paní (Dětská hlava) 2 routes Dži - dži 2 routes Zelený pepř 2 routes Lesovik 2 routes Verdon 2 routes Pytlák 2 routes Manželská věž 2 routes Černý kužel 1 route Jizerská věž 1 route Lebka 1 route Deštníková věž (Paraple) 1 route
4+
Cipísek
Up the edge to the left of the Bloody Route, directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Cipísek
Through the center of the E face, climb directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Cipísek
On the left in the S face, up the crack with the overhanging start and then up the wall… Rock Climbing
5
Cipísek
On the left in the E face, climb directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Cipísek
About 1m to the right of the Smooth Route, climb directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Cipísek
In the narrow S face, up the overhanging crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Cipísek
On the right in the E face, climb directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Cipísek
Up the overhanging NE edge to the balcony and then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Cipísek
Up the narrow wall at the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Cipísek
Through the center of the N face, climb directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Cipísek
Up the left north edge, higher up, climb the wall on the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Cipísek
On the right in the north (N) face to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Cipísek
On the left in the N face, climb directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Železná hlava
Up the sloping slab past the ring to the bolt and over the bulge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Železná hlava
Like the route "Jackal's Legacy," climb the wall slightly diagonally left into the crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Železná hlava
Between the route "Jackal's Legacy" and the lower edge of the wall, climb past 2 bolts to… Rock Climbing
4+
Železná hlava
To the right of the 'Tokáňský nos' route, by the crack and corner to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Železná hlava
By the wall at the edge under the overhang 1st ring, from the right over the overhang 2nd… Rock Climbing
6-
Železná hlava
Over the iron-rich slab past the 2nd bolt, diagonally right to the crack at the 3rd bolt… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Strážce masivu
From the SE, descend the valley edge of the adjacent massif (or by the chimney) to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Verdon
From the 2nd ring, by the chimney, higher up left by the narrow chimney over the balcony… Rock Climbing
4+
Verdon
On the right, in the prominent corner, by the wall to the ledge, then left to the ring.… Rock Climbing
3
Tokáňská věž
By the crack and wall near the upland edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Tokáňská věž
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif to the ring. Bridging, opposition,… Rock Climbing
3
Johanův kámen
To the right of 'Cesta', through the center of the smooth wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Johanův kámen
Through the center of the smooth wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Johanův kámen
By the smooth wall below the rappel point directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Johanův kámen
To the right of the Wavy Edge, climb the wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Johanův kámen
By the right upland edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Johanův kámen
On the right, in the valley wall, climb the wall, then higher up by the edge to the top. Rock Climbing

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