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Climbing at Na Tokáni

463 routes
95 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Na Tokáni is a Bohemian Switzerland National Park sector with more than 460 routes on 95 sandstone towers – for example Cipísek, the Great and Small Towers of the Rose Garden, Johanův kámen, Jedlový roh, Spálený hrad, Měsíční kámen, Křinický kostel, Ježibaba and Řádný občan. Vertical walls dominate, often in the shade, with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 9. Bohemian Switzerland NP, Na Tokáni has 463 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 95 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Cipísek 14 routes Velká věž růžové zahrady 13 routes Johanův kámen 11 routes Jedlový roh 11 routes Spálený hrad 10 routes Měsíční kámen 9 routes Malá věž růžové zahrady 8 routes Křinický kostel 8 routes Ježibaba 8 routes Řádný občan 8 routes Jižní kříž 7 routes Budha 7 routes Orlická věž 7 routes Big stone 7 routes Lidožrout 7 routes Pytlácký kámen 7 routes Strážce pětidomí 7 routes Křinický král 7 routes Čtyřlístek 7 routes Zelená věž 6 routes Želva 6 routes Březová věžička 6 routes Strážce mostků 6 routes Koňský zub (Sluneční hlava) 6 routes Vosa 6 routes Železná hlava 6 routes Šikmá věž 6 routes Poustevna 6 routes Křinická věž 6 routes Vosí věž 6 routes Krkonošská věž 5 routes Čertovo kvítko 5 routes Rejnok 5 routes Döbelnský erb 5 routes Letní kámen 5 routes Věž Pryskyřičného dolu 5 routes Starosta 5 routes Tokáňská věž 5 routes Barbucha 5 routes Špendlík 5 routes Postilión 5 routes Soudek (Beatricina věž) 5 routes Věž Tadeáše Haenkeho 5 routes Strážce jehly 5 routes Vlasatice 5 routes Schovaný kužel 5 routes Sýrový plátek 5 routes Zub 5 routes Jedový zub 5 routes Brontosaurus 5 routes Sršeň 4 routes Kobylka 4 routes Strážce masivu 4 routes Vlkodlak 4 routes Západní špička 4 routes Hrot 4 routes Střílna 4 routes Maják 4 routes Šakalova věž 4 routes Skylla 4 routes Strážce Pryskyřičného dolu 4 routes Alenčino zrcadlo 4 routes Ama Dablam 4 routes Bílinský kámen 4 routes Jelení věže 4 routes Kalich 4 routes Strážce Vosího vrchu 4 routes Věž Mostkového dolu 3 routes Melzerova jehla 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Sysifův kámen 3 routes Křesadlo 3 routes Hlava Růžové zahrady 3 routes Jednorožec 3 routes Bašta růžové zahrady 3 routes Dolní hrádek 3 routes Mamut 3 routes Zátiší 3 routes Klekánice 3 routes Kost 3 routes Tokáňská jehla 3 routes Požárník 2 routes Věž národního parku 2 routes Vyvolávač duchů 2 routes Černá paní (Dětská hlava) 2 routes Dži - dži 2 routes Zelený pepř 2 routes Lesovik 2 routes Verdon 2 routes Pytlák 2 routes Manželská věž 2 routes Černý kužel 1 route Jizerská věž 1 route Lebka 1 route Deštníková věž (Paraple) 1 route
4+
Šikmá věž
From the boulder at the SW edge, go left towards the overhang on the edge, and then to… Rock Climbing
5
Špendlík
Rock Climbing
2+
Šikmá věž
By the blunt uphill edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Špendlík
By the downhill edge over the bolt straight to the 1st ring of the Old Daredevil route.… Rock Climbing
5+
Špendlík
On the right along the downhill edge by the chimney, higher up traverse left to the 1st… Rock Climbing
6-
Špendlík
Rock Climbing
4+
Špendlík
From the massif descend to the saddle (also ascent from the base of the tower). (Building… Rock Climbing
3
Pytlák
Between the "Pytlácký kámen" and the tower, climb the chimney from the south and go left… Rock Climbing
3
Pytlák
From the "Pytlácký kámen" tower, descend to the footbridge, traverse and drop into the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Kobylka
Leap from the massif to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kobylka
Descend via the old route to the saddle, and at the lower wedged boulder, ascend the… Rock Climbing
3
Kobylka
From the boulder, traverse left under the gully and ascend the gully to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Kobylka
On the right in the massif, up the chimney into the saddle between the tower and the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Barbucha
From Winnie the Pooh, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Barbucha
In the Southeast face, up the crack to the corner, then higher as Azurit, up the face to… Rock Climbing
6
Barbucha
From the west edge, via a ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Barbucha
From the Southwest, via the chimney and then left along the steps to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Vlkodlak
From the west, descend between the towers and up the north chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Barbucha
Up the smooth Southwest face via a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Vlkodlak
From Barbucha, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Vlkodlak
Left of the east edge, up the face via 2 rings directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Bludička
From the west, descend via the chimney between the towers, then up the west chimney on… Rock Climbing
5+
Bludička
In the left part of the lower north face, up a crack via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Vlkodlak
In the middle of the South face, use the small chimney passing a ring to the 2nd ring and… Rock Climbing
4-
Bludička
From the East, via the chimney directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sysifův kámen
Up the sloping uphill wall directly into the hollow and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Jelení věže
Through the chimney between the towers, higher up on the left, up the leaning wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Jelení věže
Jump from "Upper Tower" directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Sysifův kámen
From the uphill side, up the sloping wall to the left and the overgrown West wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Sysifův kámen
From the uphill side, diagonally to the right to the East edge and then to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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