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Climbing at Na Tokáni

463 routes
95 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Na Tokáni is a Bohemian Switzerland National Park sector with more than 460 routes on 95 sandstone towers – for example Cipísek, the Great and Small Towers of the Rose Garden, Johanův kámen, Jedlový roh, Spálený hrad, Měsíční kámen, Křinický kostel, Ježibaba and Řádný občan. Vertical walls dominate, often in the shade, with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 9. Bohemian Switzerland NP, Na Tokáni has 463 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 95 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Cipísek 14 routes Velká věž růžové zahrady 13 routes Johanův kámen 11 routes Jedlový roh 11 routes Spálený hrad 10 routes Měsíční kámen 9 routes Malá věž růžové zahrady 8 routes Křinický kostel 8 routes Ježibaba 8 routes Řádný občan 8 routes Jižní kříž 7 routes Budha 7 routes Orlická věž 7 routes Big stone 7 routes Lidožrout 7 routes Pytlácký kámen 7 routes Strážce pětidomí 7 routes Křinický král 7 routes Čtyřlístek 7 routes Zelená věž 6 routes Želva 6 routes Březová věžička 6 routes Strážce mostků 6 routes Koňský zub (Sluneční hlava) 6 routes Vosa 6 routes Železná hlava 6 routes Šikmá věž 6 routes Poustevna 6 routes Křinická věž 6 routes Vosí věž 6 routes Krkonošská věž 5 routes Čertovo kvítko 5 routes Rejnok 5 routes Döbelnský erb 5 routes Letní kámen 5 routes Věž Pryskyřičného dolu 5 routes Starosta 5 routes Tokáňská věž 5 routes Barbucha 5 routes Špendlík 5 routes Postilión 5 routes Soudek (Beatricina věž) 5 routes Věž Tadeáše Haenkeho 5 routes Strážce jehly 5 routes Vlasatice 5 routes Schovaný kužel 5 routes Sýrový plátek 5 routes Zub 5 routes Jedový zub 5 routes Brontosaurus 5 routes Sršeň 4 routes Kobylka 4 routes Strážce masivu 4 routes Vlkodlak 4 routes Západní špička 4 routes Hrot 4 routes Střílna 4 routes Maják 4 routes Šakalova věž 4 routes Skylla 4 routes Strážce Pryskyřičného dolu 4 routes Alenčino zrcadlo 4 routes Ama Dablam 4 routes Bílinský kámen 4 routes Jelení věže 4 routes Kalich 4 routes Strážce Vosího vrchu 4 routes Věž Mostkového dolu 3 routes Melzerova jehla 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Sysifův kámen 3 routes Křesadlo 3 routes Hlava Růžové zahrady 3 routes Jednorožec 3 routes Bašta růžové zahrady 3 routes Dolní hrádek 3 routes Mamut 3 routes Zátiší 3 routes Klekánice 3 routes Kost 3 routes Tokáňská jehla 3 routes Požárník 2 routes Věž národního parku 2 routes Vyvolávač duchů 2 routes Černá paní (Dětská hlava) 2 routes Dži - dži 2 routes Zelený pepř 2 routes Lesovik 2 routes Verdon 2 routes Pytlák 2 routes Manželská věž 2 routes Černý kužel 1 route Jizerská věž 1 route Lebka 1 route Deštníková věž (Paraple) 1 route
5+
Zub
From the valley, climb the chimney and the edge via BH n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zub
Through the center of the East wall via a ring to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Vosí věž
To the right of the Old Route, climb the wall via a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Vosí věž
To the left of the Klubový žlab (Club Gully) route, use a chimney and climb the wall via… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Vosí věž
Through the center of the East wall via 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Vosí věž
Climb the left uphill edge via a ring to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Vosí věž
Climb the South wall to the ring, then by stacking and the gully to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Vosí věž
In the center of the West wall (by stacking), climb the wall to the balcony and… Rock Climbing
?
Šakalova věž
From the West of the massif, jump to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Strážce pětidomí
Up the S wall and the crack under the rappel directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce pětidomí
Through the center of the W wall, higher up to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Ježibaba
From the start of the Old route, go right to the platform, right into the gully and onto… Rock Climbing
3
Ježibaba
At the W edge, go directly up the gully to the platform and take the Arch route to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Ježibaba
On the left in the S wall, up the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Ježibaba
Through the center of the NE wall, over a ring and a clock to the 2nd ring. Directly up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Ježibaba
On the left in the S wall, use a rib to the balcony. Build and go up the wall over the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Ježibaba
Up the edge over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Ježibaba
In the S wall, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Ježibaba
From the S chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Vosa
Take the right downhill edge to the ring and scale the smooth face to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Želva
In the left part of the downhill face, take the crack past 2 rings and the edge of … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Želva
On the South face to the block, then scale the face to the left, higher up directly to… Rock Climbing
5+
Želva
On the right side of the South face, go to the flake and scale the face to the right to… Rock Climbing
3
Želva
On the left side of the South face, scale the face and crack to the pre-summit. Follow… Rock Climbing
5+
Želva
On the West face, scale the smooth face to the block, later to the pre-summit. Follow the… Rock Climbing
2+
Želva
Scale the face to the right to the East edge, then follow it to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Jizerská věž
From the uphill side, briefly chimneying, stemming, and scaling the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Jedlový roh
Like "Valley Route" to the end of the crack and right to the balcony (slings). Through a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Jedlový roh
From the start of "Southern Route," up the wall to the right to the southern edge and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Poustevna
From the massif, descend to the balcony and jump into the hands at the top to the summit… Rock Climbing

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