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Climbing at Na Tokáni

463 routes
95 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Na Tokáni is a Bohemian Switzerland National Park sector with more than 460 routes on 95 sandstone towers – for example Cipísek, the Great and Small Towers of the Rose Garden, Johanův kámen, Jedlový roh, Spálený hrad, Měsíční kámen, Křinický kostel, Ježibaba and Řádný občan. Vertical walls dominate, often in the shade, with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 9. Bohemian Switzerland NP, Na Tokáni has 463 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 95 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Cipísek 14 routes Velká věž růžové zahrady 13 routes Johanův kámen 11 routes Jedlový roh 11 routes Spálený hrad 10 routes Měsíční kámen 9 routes Malá věž růžové zahrady 8 routes Křinický kostel 8 routes Ježibaba 8 routes Řádný občan 8 routes Jižní kříž 7 routes Budha 7 routes Orlická věž 7 routes Big stone 7 routes Lidožrout 7 routes Pytlácký kámen 7 routes Strážce pětidomí 7 routes Křinický král 7 routes Čtyřlístek 7 routes Zelená věž 6 routes Želva 6 routes Březová věžička 6 routes Strážce mostků 6 routes Koňský zub (Sluneční hlava) 6 routes Vosa 6 routes Železná hlava 6 routes Šikmá věž 6 routes Poustevna 6 routes Křinická věž 6 routes Vosí věž 6 routes Krkonošská věž 5 routes Čertovo kvítko 5 routes Rejnok 5 routes Döbelnský erb 5 routes Letní kámen 5 routes Věž Pryskyřičného dolu 5 routes Starosta 5 routes Tokáňská věž 5 routes Barbucha 5 routes Špendlík 5 routes Postilión 5 routes Soudek (Beatricina věž) 5 routes Věž Tadeáše Haenkeho 5 routes Strážce jehly 5 routes Vlasatice 5 routes Schovaný kužel 5 routes Sýrový plátek 5 routes Zub 5 routes Jedový zub 5 routes Brontosaurus 5 routes Sršeň 4 routes Kobylka 4 routes Strážce masivu 4 routes Vlkodlak 4 routes Západní špička 4 routes Hrot 4 routes Střílna 4 routes Maják 4 routes Šakalova věž 4 routes Skylla 4 routes Strážce Pryskyřičného dolu 4 routes Alenčino zrcadlo 4 routes Ama Dablam 4 routes Bílinský kámen 4 routes Jelení věže 4 routes Kalich 4 routes Strážce Vosího vrchu 4 routes Věž Mostkového dolu 3 routes Melzerova jehla 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Sysifův kámen 3 routes Křesadlo 3 routes Hlava Růžové zahrady 3 routes Jednorožec 3 routes Bašta růžové zahrady 3 routes Dolní hrádek 3 routes Mamut 3 routes Zátiší 3 routes Klekánice 3 routes Kost 3 routes Tokáňská jehla 3 routes Požárník 2 routes Věž národního parku 2 routes Vyvolávač duchů 2 routes Černá paní (Dětská hlava) 2 routes Dži - dži 2 routes Zelený pepř 2 routes Lesovik 2 routes Verdon 2 routes Pytlák 2 routes Manželská věž 2 routes Černý kužel 1 route Jizerská věž 1 route Lebka 1 route Deštníková věž (Paraple) 1 route
Přeskok
Poustevna
From the massif, descend to the balcony and jump into the hands at the top to the summit… Rock Climbing
2+
Poustevna
From the southwest, up the chimney to the pre-summit and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Poustevna
Up the uphill edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Poustevna
From the north, up the corner and chimney to the pre-summit. Up the old route to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Poustevna
Up the south edge and over the overhanging crack (small slings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Čertovo kvítko
Through the center of the uphill face directly to the ring of the "Viva Libertate" route… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Ama Dablam
In the downhill (west) face, briefly up the crack and face into the chimney, up that to… Rock Climbing
5+
Ama Dablam
Up the smooth uphill face and hollow to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Ama Dablam
Up the north face to the chimney and to the right up the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Ama Dablam
From the massif, traverse across the spikes and jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Malá věž růžové zahrady
(Building up) onto the northwest edge and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Hlava Růžové zahrady
Start left of the "Old Route" up the face over the overhang, then up the face along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Velká věž růžové zahrady
Right in the east face via crack, then diagonally left up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Velká věž růžové zahrady
Left of the North Chimney route, up the overhanging face (1st ring), then via the oblique… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
Přeskok
Křesadlo
From the massif, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Křesadlo
Up the chimney between the tower and the massif, higher up a step-over to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Křesadlo
Up a narrow chimney between the tower and the massif, higher up the face using steps to… Rock Climbing
?
Kalich
From the east of the massif, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kalich
East, diagonally left into the valley face and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Řádný občan
Northeast edge briefly, upwards, then right to the edge into the gully to the ring. Gully… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Spálený hrad
Jump from the massif to the slabby wall and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Spálený hrad
Start about 5 m to the left of the "South Chimney" route, go up the wall across 3 rings… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Hrot
From the saddle, use the chimney and crack to the ring, then up the wide chimney to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Hrot
In the valley face, use the crack in the corner, the rib, and the wall across 3 rings to… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Hrot
Jump from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Hrot
Descend from the massif via the gully and overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Šikmá věž
From the block at the W edge, overhang and traverse left into the gully. Then up and… Rock Climbing
5
Šikmá věž
Directly to the summit along the right upper (NE) edge. Rock Climbing
5+
Šikmá věž
From the block in the N face, build into the gully (ring) and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Šikmá věž
From the boulder at the SW edge, go left towards the overhang on the edge, and then to… Rock Climbing

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