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Climbing at Na Tokáni

463 routes
95 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Na Tokáni is a Bohemian Switzerland National Park sector with more than 460 routes on 95 sandstone towers – for example Cipísek, the Great and Small Towers of the Rose Garden, Johanův kámen, Jedlový roh, Spálený hrad, Měsíční kámen, Křinický kostel, Ježibaba and Řádný občan. Vertical walls dominate, often in the shade, with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 9. Bohemian Switzerland NP, Na Tokáni has 463 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 95 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Cipísek 14 routes Velká věž růžové zahrady 13 routes Johanův kámen 11 routes Jedlový roh 11 routes Spálený hrad 10 routes Měsíční kámen 9 routes Malá věž růžové zahrady 8 routes Křinický kostel 8 routes Ježibaba 8 routes Řádný občan 8 routes Jižní kříž 7 routes Budha 7 routes Orlická věž 7 routes Big stone 7 routes Lidožrout 7 routes Pytlácký kámen 7 routes Strážce pětidomí 7 routes Křinický král 7 routes Čtyřlístek 7 routes Zelená věž 6 routes Želva 6 routes Březová věžička 6 routes Strážce mostků 6 routes Koňský zub (Sluneční hlava) 6 routes Vosa 6 routes Železná hlava 6 routes Šikmá věž 6 routes Poustevna 6 routes Křinická věž 6 routes Vosí věž 6 routes Krkonošská věž 5 routes Čertovo kvítko 5 routes Rejnok 5 routes Döbelnský erb 5 routes Letní kámen 5 routes Věž Pryskyřičného dolu 5 routes Starosta 5 routes Tokáňská věž 5 routes Barbucha 5 routes Špendlík 5 routes Postilión 5 routes Soudek (Beatricina věž) 5 routes Věž Tadeáše Haenkeho 5 routes Strážce jehly 5 routes Vlasatice 5 routes Schovaný kužel 5 routes Sýrový plátek 5 routes Zub 5 routes Jedový zub 5 routes Brontosaurus 5 routes Sršeň 4 routes Kobylka 4 routes Strážce masivu 4 routes Vlkodlak 4 routes Západní špička 4 routes Hrot 4 routes Střílna 4 routes Maják 4 routes Šakalova věž 4 routes Skylla 4 routes Strážce Pryskyřičného dolu 4 routes Alenčino zrcadlo 4 routes Ama Dablam 4 routes Bílinský kámen 4 routes Jelení věže 4 routes Kalich 4 routes Strážce Vosího vrchu 4 routes Věž Mostkového dolu 3 routes Melzerova jehla 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Sysifův kámen 3 routes Křesadlo 3 routes Hlava Růžové zahrady 3 routes Jednorožec 3 routes Bašta růžové zahrady 3 routes Dolní hrádek 3 routes Mamut 3 routes Zátiší 3 routes Klekánice 3 routes Kost 3 routes Tokáňská jehla 3 routes Požárník 2 routes Věž národního parku 2 routes Vyvolávač duchů 2 routes Černá paní (Dětská hlava) 2 routes Dži - dži 2 routes Zelený pepř 2 routes Lesovik 2 routes Verdon 2 routes Pytlák 2 routes Manželská věž 2 routes Černý kužel 1 route Jizerská věž 1 route Lebka 1 route Deštníková věž (Paraple) 1 route
3
Jelení věže
Through the narrow chimney in the middle of the uphill wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Vyvolávač duchů
Uphill wall along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vyvolávač duchů
On the right in the South wall, along the oblique crack to the edge and then to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Jelení věže
From the chimney between the peaks, through the narrow chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Manželská věž
Up the chimney between the South tower and the North tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Manželská věž
Up the chimney between the South tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Tokáňská jehla
On the right uphill edge, passing 2 bolts, higher up diagonally to the right to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Tokáňská jehla
Via the left downhill edge to the ring, then along the edge and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Strážce jehly
Directly to the summit via a chimney-like hold in the NW face. Rock Climbing
6-
Tokáňská jehla
On the left in the uphill face, up the crack to the balcony (ring), and then up the wall… Rock Climbing
2
Strážce jehly
Directly to the summit via the uphill edge. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Strážce jehly
On the left in the downhill face, up the wall, then up the overhanging crack and the wall… Rock Climbing
4+
Strážce jehly
On the right in the downhill face, up the wall and crack to the belay point, then higher… Rock Climbing
4-
Čtyřlístek
Up the crack in the uphill face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Strážce jehly
Via the downhill edge over the overhang, higher up first to the left, then diagonally to… Rock Climbing
3
Čtyřlístek
Directly to the summit via the right uphill edge. Rock Climbing
5
Čtyřlístek
In the center of the downhill face, up the chimney over the balcony to the 2nd balcony,… Rock Climbing
3
Čtyřlístek
On the right uphill edge, descend to the right towards the crack, and then up that crack… Rock Climbing
4+
Čtyřlístek
Through the crack and chimney directly into the crack, and then up that crack to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Čtyřlístek
On the left uphill edge, using a chimney-like hold to the left towards the crack, then up… Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Tadeáše Haenkeho
Far right in the north face, climb the wall over the ledge (tree) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Věž Tadeáše Haenkeho
Directly to the summit via the center of the uphill face. Rock Climbing
2
Věž Tadeáše Haenkeho
From the block, up the left north edge diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Tadeáše Haenkeho
At the right north edge, up the wall and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Brontosaurus
Far right in the massif, descend the gully to the ledge, overhang, and as per the Old… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Brontosaurus
From the massif, descend to the right, jump to the pinnacle, and as per the Old Route to… Rock Climbing
5
Brontosaurus
In the center of the NE face, up the crack with the overhanging start to the ledge and… Rock Climbing
4+
Cipísek
To the left of the Windy Route, climb directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Brontosaurus
From the north, up the chimney between the tower and the massif, then diagonally right… Rock Climbing
2+
Brontosaurus
From the massif on the left, descend, overhang, and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing

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