Part of Modřín, Nová pekárna has 12 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 4+ to 9/9+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Textile belay.
Rules
Nature protection: Tower and surroundings closed from February 23 to June 30 due to peregrine falcon nesting.
OVK: Magnesium is limited according to sandstone rules, first ascents only with the consent of the administrator.The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
8+/9-
Tlustý chléb
Through the center of the wall to the right of the Kvásek route, via 7 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Ve frontě v neděli - var. pumprnikl
From the 2nd Bh right via 2 BH to the 2nd K of the Tři oříšky pro ochmelky route. Then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Světu chléb
From the start of the Tři oříšky route, diagonally left up the wall via BH into the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Ve frontě v neděli
Via the crimpy crack of the Tři oříšky route up to the big hourglass, higher directly up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Kvásek
Left up the wall (1st K) into the crack, along it to the 2nd K. Through the crack n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Varianta Malé dalamánky péct
Left of the chimney, along the edge via 2 BH to the K of the “Dalamánek” route, and then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Tři oříšky pro ochmelky
Through the crack that turns into the right SE edge to the 1st K. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Okraj buchty
Along the right downhill edge (3 BH), left along the rib to the 1st K of the “Tři oříšky.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Dalamánek
Across the right chimney to the SE edge, along it (K) and shallow corners n. v. Rock Climbing