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Climbing at Novoroční věž

13 routes
1–8 grades

Part of Skály na Rači, Novoroční věž has 13 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 8. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay.

Rules

Nature Conservation: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature Conservation Document: Decision 2020, maps authority OP CHKO Kokořínsko1b

- The permit applies to free climbing, ice climbing, dry tooling, bouldering, and via ferrata are not allowed. - Trees and vegetation cover of the rocks must not be removed. Do not damage the surface of the rock. - RP (Redpoint) and OS (Onsight) are prohibited if the rope rubs, extend the belay on the rock so that the edge does not rub. - Magnesium and metal belay devices are prohibited. - It is forbidden to abseil from trees and shrubs, climbing on rocks soaked with water, snow-covered, and icy. - Climbing only from below, max. 5 team members, TOP ROPE is prohibited. 7a

Nature Conservation: Climbing allowed all year round in designated polygons. Nature Conservation Document: Decision 2020, maps, Conservation Authority Kokořínsko Protected Landscape Area.

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
1
Novoroční věž
Jump from the foreland to the sloping slab to the right of the prominent crack and… Rock Climbing
2
Novoroční věž
From the massive boulder M, jump directly to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Novoroční věž
In the front part (under the massive boulder M) through the chimney between M and the… Rock Climbing
7
Novoroční věž
Start briefly up a crack in the left part of the downhill (S) face, then diagonally left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Novoroční věž
Crack in the left part (S) of the downhill face (slings) to a bolt and over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Novoroční věž
Right part of the E face over the overhang to the 1st bolt, then chimneying and over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Novoroční věž
Traverse upwards slightly to the left along the J wall to a crack at the 1st bolt. Then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Novoroční věž
Slab to the right of the crack in the (S) downhill face over 2 bolts and a rappel bolt to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Novoroční věž
From the South, up the left-hand chimney between M and the tower via a bolt under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Novoroční věž
In the north face, diagonally right to a ledge (slings) and over the 1st bolt diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Novoroční věž
From the South, up the middle chimney between M and the tower into the depression (sling)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Novoroční věž
Through the passage between M and the tower upwards to the traverse on the left, briefly… Rock Climbing
3
Novoroční věž
From the South, up the right-hand chimney between M and the tower to the saddle and n. v. Rock Climbing

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