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Part of 09. Ostroh Jeptišky, Orloj has 19 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 5 to 8+/9-. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route on sun.

Rules

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps body OP PLA Bohemian Paradise

First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84315, 14.21647

7-/7
Orloj
Up the center of the right S wall over 4 BHs to the edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Orloj
Via the iron-stained small wall to the left of the "Samá voda" (Only Water) route over 3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Orloj
From S, up the small wall to the ledge (sling in the hole). Traverse down left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Orloj
To the right on the slope from the North Face route, up a small wall over BH to a ledge … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Orloj
To the right from the valley along the shallow cracks/grooves and up the wall over 2 BHs… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Orloj
From V, via the corner crack and higher up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Orloj
In the right part of the valley wall over 4 K to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Orloj
In the valley wall, to the right of the Caterpillar route, via a prominent edge over 3 K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Orloj
Start from the fore-summit at the SW edge and traverse right past the edge to the 1st… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
7/7+
Orloj
Up the crack in the middle of the S wall over the 1st bolt to the end at the 2nd bolt.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Orloj
Start in the S wall via a 3m crack, then right to the 1st piton. Right up the wall over 4… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Orloj
Via the "Caterpillar" route for about 7 meters. Left up the wall and along the edge over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Orloj
Via the Time Machine route over 4 K's to the ledge (above it the 5th K). Briefly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Orloj
Completely on the left in the S wall via a prominent corner over 2 bolts to a piton. Over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Orloj
From the west in the corner from the fore-summit, up the right overhanging small wall and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Orloj
From the fore-summit on the SW edge over a bolt and 2 pitons up the wall under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Orloj
From the South, from the gully, up a 15m chimney into a horizontal notch and traverse… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Orloj
In the left part of the South wall, start from the block up a small wall (bolt) and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Orloj
Completely on the left in the S wall. Up the wall along the prominent edge over 4 bolts… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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