Ostroh Jeptišky on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 130 routes – most on Kominická stěna, Jeptiška, Jánošík and Orloj, with more on Tři palice and Prašivá věž. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 2+ to 10-/10.
Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 09. Ostroh Jeptišky has 132 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 10-/10. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Kominická stěna Jeptiška Jánošík Orloj Tři palice Prašivá věž Dědské hřiště Slamák Svícen Klip – klap Nebeská vyhlídka Salaš
8+/9-
Obušku z pytle ven
To the left of the "Paličatá" (Stubborn) route along the edge and wall via 6 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Paličatá
In the right part of the wall via a crack over 2 K and right onto the balcony. Continue… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Wickie a vikingové
To the left of the Solidní nejistota (Solid Uncertainty) route up the wall via 3 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Fred Flintstone
To the left of the Wickie a vikingové (Wickie and the Vikings) route up the wall via 3 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Radost co mi nevezmou
To the right of the Solidní nejistota (Solid Uncertainty) route along the right edge via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Solidní nejistota
In the central part of the valley (North) face, directly below the chimney, up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Nadoraz
Up the left pillar on the East side diagonally right to the BH and left via the crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Flintstones
To the right of the "Nadoraz" (To the Limit) route via an overhanging narrow wall (4 BH)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Cesta přátelství
In the right part of the South face via a crack and up the wall directly, at the top… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
6-
Mrtvej Homolka
On the left pillar along the left edge via 3 BH into the crack of the "Na Doraz" (To the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Jihovýchodní hrana
From the start of the "Old Route" traverse right to the SE edge to K. Along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Vyhlídkový let
To the left of the "Red Crack" up the wall via 3 BH (from the 1st BH on the left) to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Červená spára
(By building) into the crack in the East face and along it to its end. Left and up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Ocelový vibrátor
From the start of "Iron Butterfly" up the wall via 3 K to the 2nd K of the "Iron… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Chlapci na tom horním konci
From the 1st BH of Vyhlídkový let (Sightseeing Flight) left along the edge via 2 BH to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Železný motýl
To the right in the E wall, from the boulder, up the wall diagonally right to a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Přes hák
Briefly through the "Valley Chimney" and to the left up the wall over 4 bolts to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Extáze
To the left of the "Valley Chimney" up the wall over 2 bolts to the 1st bolt of the route… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Čtvrť červených luceren
Briefly up the valley chimney and then right up the wall over 2 bolts to the 3rd bolt.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Údolní komín
In the valley wall, through the chimney that narrows into a crack, to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Údolní stěna
To the right of the "Valley Chimney" via a crack to the 1st K. Diagonally right and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Balistická cesta - Varianta
From the 2nd K (by standing) and up the wall diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
KitKatClub
From the 3rd bolt of the route "Quarter of Red Lanterns", up the wall from the right over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Přímá údolní stěna
Over 2 K to the 2nd K of the "Valley Wall" and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Žrout
From the 1st bolt of the route "War with the Newts", up the wall to the right and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Válka s mloky
Through the middle of the west wall over 4 bolts directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Západní cesta
From the upper side traverse left and through the middle of the W wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Balistická cesta
From the right (by standing) to the W edge and along it to K. Up the wall diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2