Ostroh Jeptišky on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 130 routes – most on Kominická stěna, Jeptiška, Jánošík and Orloj, with more on Tři palice and Prašivá věž. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 2+ to 10-/10.
Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 09. Ostroh Jeptišky has 132 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 10-/10. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Kominická stěna Jeptiška Jánošík Orloj Tři palice Prašivá věž Dědské hřiště Slamák Svícen Klip – klap Nebeská vyhlídka Salaš
2+
Stará cesta
Through the chimney in the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Náhorní cesta
Approximately 3m to the left of the "Old Route" high up. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Náhorní stěna
Up the wall below the abseil point to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Jihovýchodní hrana
Up the right upper SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Východní cesta
In the narrow E wall over the overhang and through the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Očista
Left behind the edge of the valley wall through a hole to a small balcony to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Švihlá varianta
Through the middle of the valley wall via a crack over K to a ledge and traverse left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Prašivina
Right in the valley wall over 2 BH to the 2nd K of "Purification". Via it to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
3
Lenivá cesta
Like the "Old Route" to the start of the ledge and directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7-/7
Pivní dech
From the 1st K of the "Crazy Variant" to the right and up the wall over 2 K to the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
3
Stará cesta
From the center of the plateau wall along a ledge left above the overhang and up the wall… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7/7+
Božský klid
Via the Valley Edge (3 BH) to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Jílovská varianta
Via the crack of the "South Route" several meters upwards, higher up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Tenké obočí
Like the route "Spinach Eyes" to the 1st BH and directly via a small rib over the 2nd BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Špenátový oči
Right in the S face to BH, right to the edge and via it over 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Jižní cesta - Varianta
From the overhang via a crack and wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
8/8+
Údolní hrana
Along the SE edge over 6 K and 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Jižní cesta
Right of the "Old Route" via a crack to the overhang and traverse right to the 1st K. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Údolní stěna
From the overgrown ledge up the center of the wall over 6 K, higher up as "Valley Edge". Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Přímá údolní stěna
Via the route "Valley Wall" over 6 rings to the right onto a ledge and further like … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Varianta Neoblomné abatyše (Dogma)
From the 3rd BH of "Unwavering Abbess" from the left edge over BH to its 6th BH and via… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9+
Neoblomná abatyše
Right of the route "Valley Wall" over 3 BH to the balcony (BH), via the wall right of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Severní cesta - Varianta
Via the chimney in the S face to the platform (belay K). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Severní stěna
Via the North Route to the 1st balcony and left via the wall along the crack (K) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Severní cesta
Left in the S face via a crack and wall to the platform and chimney to the false summit … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Ženy v černém
From the fore-rock in the S face, left via a wall and crack to the 1st BH. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Síla a víra
Center of the north face via a blunt edge (4 BH) to the platform (BH). Via the route … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Varianta Poslední pokušení (Fakt pokušení)
Center of the pillar via BH to the 1st BH of the route "Last Temptation" and via it to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Poslední pokušení
From the chimney in the S face traverse left to the 1st BH, up over 2 BH to the 3rd BH of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Celibát
S face via 4 BH, then any route to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3