Ostroh Jeptišky on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 130 routes – most on Kominická stěna, Jeptiška, Jánošík and Orloj, with more on Tři palice and Prašivá věž. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 2+ to 10-/10.
Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 09. Ostroh Jeptišky has 132 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 10-/10. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Kominická stěna Jeptiška Jánošík Orloj Tři palice Prašivá věž Dědské hřiště Slamák Svícen Klip – klap Nebeská vyhlídka Salaš
5
Roztroušená skleróza
To the right of the chimney, up the blunt edge of the right wall over BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
3
Sportovní klasika
Via the chimney between the middle and right wall to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Životní moudrost
Up the right part of the right wall to the balcony and up the wall over 2 K to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Hříčka přírody
To the left of the "Fulfillment of Wishes" route, up the wall to the crack and through it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Částečná demence
Up the center of the middle small wall to BH and right up the wall over the 2nd BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Senilní důchodce
Up the right edge of the left wall over BH and K to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Alzhajmr
Up the center of the left wall over K, BH, and 2nd K to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Pro mámu
Up the right part of the left wall over 2 BHs to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Samá voda
Up the center of the right S wall over 4 BHs to the edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Ženský syndrom
To the left of the left valley edge, via the corner and wall over K, further to the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Obavaný Willhem
To the left of the "Lion's Share" route over 5 BHs to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Lví podíl
At the base of the valley wall, via the shallow crack/groove and wall over 3 K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Severní stěna
From S, up the small wall to the ledge (sling in the hole). Traverse down left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Chilli fazole
To the right on the slope from the North Face route, up a small wall over BH to a ledge … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Drummer 45
Via the iron-stained small wall to the left of the "Samá voda" (Only Water) route over 3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Housenka
From V, via the corner crack and higher up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Rumový deník
To the right from the valley along the shallow cracks/grooves and up the wall over 2 BHs… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Ocelové dveře
In the valley wall, to the right of the Caterpillar route, via a prominent edge over 3 K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Lunární kalendář
In the right part of the valley wall over 4 K to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Stroj času
Start in the S wall via a 3m crack, then right to the 1st piton. Right up the wall over 4… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Cesta mistra Hanuše
Start from the fore-summit at the SW edge and traverse right past the edge to the 1st… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
8/8+
Stop Time
Via the "Caterpillar" route for about 7 meters. Left up the wall and along the edge over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Varianta Stroje času
Via the Time Machine route over 4 K's to the ledge (above it the 5th K). Briefly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Něco z Alenky
Up the crack in the middle of the S wall over the 1st bolt to the end at the 2nd bolt.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Turboy
From the west in the corner from the fore-summit, up the right overhanging small wall and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
V beranu
From the fore-summit on the SW edge over a bolt and 2 pitons up the wall under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Bajonet
From the South, from the gully, up a 15m chimney into a horizontal notch and traverse… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Koutem v koutě
Completely on the left in the S wall via a prominent corner over 2 bolts to a piton. Over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Nové jaro
About 2.5 m to the left of the valley edge, up the wall and right along the edge over 3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
8+/9-
Only joking, too much smoking
Completely on the left in the S wall. Up the wall along the prominent edge over 4 bolts… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2