Part of 09. Ostroh Jeptišky, Prašivá věž has 9 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3 to 7/7+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow, Route on sun.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
4+
Náhorní stěna
Up the wall below the abseil point to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Jihovýchodní hrana
Up the right upper SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Očista
Left behind the edge of the valley wall through a hole to a small balcony to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Východní cesta
In the narrow E wall over the overhang and through the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Švihlá varianta
Through the middle of the valley wall via a crack over K to a ledge and traverse left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Pivní dech
From the 1st K of the "Crazy Variant" to the right and up the wall over 2 K to the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
3
Stará cesta
From the center of the plateau wall along a ledge left above the overhang and up the wall… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7/7+
Prašivina
Right in the valley wall over 2 BH to the 2nd K of "Purification". Via it to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
3
Lenivá cesta
Like the "Old Route" to the start of the ledge and directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1