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Climbing at 09. Ostroh Jeptišky

132 routes
12 areas
2+–10-/10 grades

Ostroh Jeptišky on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 130 routes – most on Kominická stěna, Jeptiška, Jánošík and Orloj, with more on Tři palice and Prašivá věž. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 2+ to 10-/10.

Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 09. Ostroh Jeptišky has 132 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 10-/10. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84315, 14.21647

Google Waze
Kominická stěna 27 routes Jeptiška 21 routes Jánošík 21 routes Orloj 19 routes Tři palice 11 routes Prašivá věž 9 routes Dědské hřiště 7 routes Slamák 6 routes Svícen 4 routes Klip – klap 3 routes Nebeská vyhlídka 3 routes Salaš 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5+
Orloj
In the left part of the South wall, start from the block up a small wall (bolt) and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4+
Slamák
From the NW wall, start left into the crack and up it to the summit. (SM) Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Slamák
To the left of the 'Fragile Life' route, up the gully and wall to the ring. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Slamák
Middle of the S wall under the overhang (piton), over it and up the wall (2nd piton) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Slamák
NW wall over 2 pitons to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Svícen
Along the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
4-
Svícen
In the left part of the W wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Salaš
From the East along the crack to the end (ring) and up the wall over 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2+
Svícen
Along the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Svícen
From the fore-rock on the upper side, through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Jeptiška
All the way to the left on the S face via a crack to a large platform (belay K) and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Slamák
To the left of the Friedrich's Direct route, left via a receding crack and gully to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay

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