Part of 15. U Žlebské jehly, Otesánek has 16 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 4+ to 8+/9-. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall.
Rules
Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Agency Bohemian Paradise
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
7-/7
Precedens
From the start of the "SE route" up the S face via 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Jihovýchodní cesta
From the plateau side, traverse above the overhang to the right all the way to the SE… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Pravá cesta
Along the right plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4+
Levá cesta
From the start of the "Old Path" left and up the face to the summit. (Renovations changed… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4+
Stará cesta
Through the center of the plateau face to the ledge, right into the hole and by crawling… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Vůně konvalinek
In the S face along the left edge to the 1st K and traverse diagonally right to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Česká varianta
From the 2nd K diagonally left to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Předmanželské klání
From 1st K "Scent of Lilies of the Valley" directly over 2 K to 3rd K "Scent of Lilies of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Labská cesta
In the right part of the valley wall to the 1st K. Slightly left via the gully to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8/8+
Rychlý odsun
Through the left part of the valley wall over 2 BH to the 2nd BH of the route "Expulsion… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Velká žranice
From the 1st BH of the route "Expulsion of Germans" from the right side of the edge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Blackout
As the route Expulsion of Germans to the 2nd BH. Then diagonally right and directly up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-/8
Odsun Němců
In the valley wall from the left diagonally right (BH) to the 2nd BH, up the wall over 4… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Red River
Left of the route "Czechs to Czechs" via a short corner and overhanging wall over 7 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Češi Čechům
S overhanging wall over 4 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2