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Climbing at 15. U Žlebské jehly

144 routes
15 areas
2+–10 grades

U Žlebské jehly on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 140 routes – most on Žlutá stěna žlebská and Kazatelna, with more on Protěžová věž, Otesánek, Bubák and Žlebská jehla. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection on vertical walls; grades from 2+ to 10.

Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 15. U Žlebské jehly has 144 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 10. Explore its 15 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall.

Rules

First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84315, 14.21647

6+/7-
Louis de Funés
Right of Fantomas, overhanging wall over 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Protěžová věž
In the N wall along the crack to the 1st K. Diagonally left to the 2nd K and 3rd K. Along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Louis de Funés
Completely left up the wall and crack over 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Louis de Funés
Right of Stehýnka. Overhanging wall over 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
10
Protěžová věž
From the 1st K of "Laura" up the wall over 8 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Protěžová věž
Left in the valley wall, up the wall and over the overhang, over 4 BH, into the "Valley… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Protěžová věž
By the route "For Whites Only" to the 3rd K of "Laura", along that to the 4th K. Right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Protěžová věž
Left of the start of the Laura route, up the wall over 3 BH to the 3rd K of "Laura".… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Protěžová věž
From the 1st BH of the route "For Whites Only" directly over BH to the 2nd K of the Laura… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Protěžová věž
In the left part of the S wall, diagonally right to the 1st K and up the wall over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Protěžová věž
In the right part of the S wall, diagonally right to the 1st K. Through a notch and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Protěžová věž
In the right part of the S wall over 4 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Protěžová věž
Up the S wall diagonally right to K. Up the wall directly to the 1st K of the route "Wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Protěžová věž
From the balcony, up a notch and a crack to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Protěžová věž
Left part of the S wall (1st K) below the overhang and right to the 2nd K. Diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Protěžová věž
Along the SW edge to the balcony and up the right crack in the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Protěžová věž
2m left of the plateau (SW) edge up the wall to a small balcony and by "Old Route Variant… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Protěžová věž
From the 1st K of "Sybyl's Wall" up the wall over 2 BH and right into the crack of "Old… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Protěžová věž
Along the left plateau edge up to the 2nd K. Another 3m up, then traverse right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Protěžová věž
Up the plateau wall from the right (or directly VIIIa) to the 1st K. Through a fine crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Protěžová věž
Left of "Sybyl's Wall" over 3 K to the edge (4th K) and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7+/8-
Protěžová věž
From the 2nd K of the route "Moral Decline" further along the edge over the 3rd K and 4th… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Bubák
Via the crack and face over 2 K and BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
10
Protěžová věž
From the 2nd K of the route "Moral Decline" up the overhanging face over 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Bubák
To the right of the route "Haunted School" along the crack (sling) to the 1st BH. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Bubák
Through the prominent corner in the middle of the massif, later along the cuts diagonally… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Bubák
Up the face to the left of the route "Haunted School", over 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Bubák
To the left of the route "Špilberk Barbucha" via a crack and the face near the edge (1st… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Bubák
In the left part of the face, up the face, crack and edge, over 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Bubák
Via the route "You have a nice guitar, boy" over 3 BH to K. From there diagonally right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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