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Climbing at 15. U Žlebské jehly

144 routes
15 areas
2+–10 grades

U Žlebské jehly on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 140 routes – most on Žlutá stěna žlebská and Kazatelna, with more on Protěžová věž, Otesánek, Bubák and Žlebská jehla. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection on vertical walls; grades from 2+ to 10.

Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 15. U Žlebské jehly has 144 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 10. Explore its 15 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall.

Rules

First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84315, 14.21647

8-/8
Žlutá stěna žlebská
Start like "Bubble Blower" and then left along the rounded edge via 7 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Žlutá stěna žlebská
In the middle of the wall, by corner crack into the chimney (K). Through the chimney over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Žlutá stěna žlebská
In the middle of the wall, by the left corner crack under the roof (belay station). Right… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
8-/8
Žlutá stěna žlebská
Right of "Velvet Crack", up the wall over 9 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Žlutá stěna žlebská
Right of the "Yellow Fever" route, through cracks, a crack and the wall over 7 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Žlutá stěna žlebská
Right of the "Flyboy" route, by crack and crack over BH, K and 3 BH into the chimney of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Žlutá stěna žlebská
From the rappel BH of Yellow Fever, up the wall to the 10th BH, from the left to the 11th… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Žlutá stěna žlebská
By the route "Fight for the Trough" above the 4th BH. Up the wall to the right over a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Žlutá stěna žlebská
Up the wall to the right of the fore-rock (2 BH) and along the crack (5 BH). Over a small… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Žlutá stěna žlebská
Left of the "Paranormal Phenomenon" route, by crack (4 BH) under the overhang to the 5th… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Žlutá stěna žlebská
From the fore-rock, left of "Purple Crack", up the wall over 4 BH left to the 5th BH of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Žlutá stěna žlebská
From the fore-rock below the left part of the wall, by purple crack over 2 K to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Žlutá stěna žlebská
By prominent corner in the left part of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
8-/8
Žlutá stěna žlebská
In the left part of the massif, by crack (K) to the ledge to the cracks of the "Powder… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Žlutá stěna žlebská
Right of Variant A3 up the wall and corner edge over 3 BH. Right into the corner, briefly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Žlutá stěna žlebská
Left of "Variant A3" up the wall over BH to the ledge of the "Powder Keg" route and along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Žlutá stěna žlebská
Up the chimney of the "Powder Keg" route to the ledge and left along the edge over 4 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Žlutá stěna žlebská
By overhanging edge (BH) to rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Žlutá stěna žlebská
On the left edge of the valley wall massif near the South edge, by chimney right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Leporelo
In the left side (SW) wall over 4 BH to a ledge and along the rounded edge to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Kouzelná panenka
Up the face and crack to the right of the Voodoo route over 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Poblion
From the small cave at the valley edge, from the left to the 1st BH and along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Leporelo
Along the right valley (E) edge over 3 BH, by crack left at the edge above the 4th BH and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Leporelo
In the center of the valley wall to the chimney and by it to the end under the overhang … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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