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Climbing at 15. U Žlebské jehly

144 routes
15 areas
2+–10 grades

U Žlebské jehly on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 140 routes – most on Žlutá stěna žlebská and Kazatelna, with more on Protěžová věž, Otesánek, Bubák and Žlebská jehla. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection on vertical walls; grades from 2+ to 10.

Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 15. U Žlebské jehly has 144 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 10. Explore its 15 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall.

Rules

First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84315, 14.21647

7-/7
Bubák
Via the route "You have a nice guitar, boy" over 3 BH to K. From there diagonally right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Bubák
To the left of the prominent corner that divides the face, along the edge, over steps and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Kouzelná panenka
Completely to the right up the face along the edge to the ledge. From there up the face,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Bubák
To the left of the route "You have a nice guitar, boy" along the small pillar over 2 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Bubák
In the left part of the face along the small pillar over 3 BH to K. Over the steps… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Kouzelná panenka
To the right of the Chucky route... up the face and cracks over 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-/7
Kouzelná panenka
To the right of the Wednesday Addams route up the face (4 BH) to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Otesánek
From the plateau side, traverse above the overhang to the right all the way to the SE… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Otesánek
SW edge over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Kouzelná panenka
Along the left edge over 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-/7
Otesánek
From the start of the "SE route" up the S face via 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Otesánek
Along the right plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4+
Otesánek
Through the center of the plateau face to the ledge, right into the hole and by crawling… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4+
Otesánek
From the start of the "Old Path" left and up the face to the summit. (Renovations changed… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Otesánek
In the S face along the left edge to the 1st K and traverse diagonally right to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Otesánek
From 1st K "Scent of Lilies of the Valley" directly over 2 K to 3rd K "Scent of Lilies of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Otesánek
From the 2nd K diagonally left to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Otesánek
In the right part of the valley wall to the 1st K. Slightly left via the gully to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8/8+
Otesánek
Through the left part of the valley wall over 2 BH to the 2nd BH of the route "Expulsion… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Otesánek
From the 1st BH of the route "Expulsion of Germans" from the right side of the edge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Otesánek
As the route Expulsion of Germans to the 2nd BH. Then diagonally right and directly up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-/8
Otesánek
In the valley wall from the left diagonally right (BH) to the 2nd BH, up the wall over 4… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Otesánek
S overhanging wall over 4 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Otesánek
Left of the route "Czechs to Czechs" via a short corner and overhanging wall over 7 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Duna
In the right part of the Dune via the crack (2 BH) over the 3rd BH overhang to the left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Pupek světa
From the right corner diagonally left to the 1st BH and up the wall over another 3 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Duna
Through the middle of the wall via the crack and up the wall over 3 BH to the abseil BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Duna
In the left part of the wall over 3 BH to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Pupek světa
Left of the central crack up the wall directly over 3 BH to the abseil station. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Pupek světa
Left of the route "Homo Žlebensis" up the wall over 5 BH to the abseil BH of the route… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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