Panteon in the northern part of Bohemian Paradise is an area of tall massifs with more than 300 routes on 20 walls – for example Belvedér (south face), Kluziště, Bílá stěna, Malý Panteon and Centrální stěna – I. liga. The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 11.
Part of Northern areas, Panteon has 303 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 20 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.
Rules
Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.
Nature protection: climbing allowed year-round except for some routes on Sokolí věž from July 1st to January 31st. Nature Protection Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps OP CHKO Český Ráj authority.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
- Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- Abseil only from fixed anchors.
- Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
- Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
- First ascents usually need prior approval.
On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.
Belvedér - jižní stěna Kluziště Bílá stěna Malý Panteon - severní stěna Centrální stěna - I. liga Malý Panteon - jižní stěna Mnich Centrální stěna - II.liga Vrchol s křížem Centrální stěna - střed stěny Věž Ivy Kovářové Centrální stěna - levá část U lomu Centrální stěna - plotna Panteonská jehla Panteonský špičák Věž nad kaplí Náprstek Rezavá stěna Centrální stěna, II. patro
7
Jarmark
Up the wall to the ledge, right via the pillar to the next ledge. Via the crack, left, up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Ruleta - Kabaretní varianta
Directly up the overhanging wall to the ledge into the “Roulette” route. (loose) Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kamínovy narozeniny
Up the wall to the ledge, from the right to the rim (ring). Directly up the wall into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Sahara
Up the loose wall to the ledge. Through the recess into the crack, along it to the next… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Propast volá propast
Between the Chimney's Birthday and Easter Crack routes, along the edge over a bolt to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Vyšší moc
Directly up the wall to the bolt and with the edge into the Brtovina route, then along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Křížová cesta
Up the wall left to the edge, along it and via the pillar to a large ledge. Right and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ruleta
By the route “Right Knichal's Crack” to the 1st ledge, then left along it and via a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
El Paso
To the right of the Polar Summer route along the edge over 5 bolts (5th bolt added later)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Odřená
From the courtyard via a narrow crack directly below the summit wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Jižní stěna levá
First right, then diagonally left below the 'Sokolík'. Traverse left and then a dynamic… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Jižní spára
To the right of the 'Normal Route' up the crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
5+
Pro moji ženskou
Up the wall to the right of the right edge of the western chimney (ring) to the ledge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7
Varianta - JV hrana
From the ring diagonally left along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Jihovýchodní hrana
Step onto the edge and follow it to the ring. Through the hollow or to the right behind… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Glllova rozcvička
The start is the same as the "Southeast Edge" route. Along the edge under the overhang,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Přímá jižní stěna
From the plateau below the summit wall, through the center of the wall over the overhang,… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Koutová cesta
Up the corner crack (piton) under the roof, traverse left to the edge and up the crack… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7-/7
Logické vyústění (varianta)
Via the "Coup in a Banana Republic" route to the spike in the small corner (sling).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Úvahy o trestu smrti
Via the CORNER ROUTE under the overhang (slings) directly over the overhang (3rd ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Přímá severní cesta
To the left of the carved slab in the center of the wall, up the crack over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8
Převislá varianta
Via the 'Corner Route' under the roof, traverse left behind the edge and up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7-/7
Převrat v banánové republice
Via the "DIRECT NORTH FACE" route to the ledge by the larch. Up the wall to the left of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Obřady jara
Along the NW edge (NORTHERN ROUTE) to a small balcony and along the edge over the ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Varianta 25 centimetrů
Along the sloping ledge to the right and up the wall directly to the ring of the Direct… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Severní cesta
Along the NW edge to the middle of the tower (belay), diagonally down left to the crack… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Normální cesta
From the N face and chimney or chimney from W to the plateau below the summit wall. Left… Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
?
Pracovní cesta
From the plateau below the S face, turn left onto the edge and follow it to the summit. Rock Climbing