Panteon in the northern part of Bohemian Paradise is an area of tall massifs with more than 300 routes on 20 walls – for example Belvedér (south face), Kluziště, Bílá stěna, Malý Panteon and Centrální stěna – I. liga. The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 11.
Part of Northern areas, Panteon has 303 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 20 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.
Rules
Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.
Nature protection: climbing allowed year-round except for some routes on Sokolí věž from July 1st to January 31st. Nature Protection Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps OP CHKO Český Ráj authority.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
- Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- Abseil only from fixed anchors.
- Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
- Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
- First ascents usually need prior approval.
On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.
Belvedér - jižní stěna Kluziště Bílá stěna Malý Panteon - severní stěna Centrální stěna - I. liga Malý Panteon - jižní stěna Mnich Centrální stěna - II.liga Vrchol s křížem Centrální stěna - střed stěny Věž Ivy Kovářové Centrální stěna - levá část U lomu Centrální stěna - plotna Panteonská jehla Panteonský špičák Věž nad kaplí Náprstek Rezavá stěna Centrální stěna, II. patro
6-
Branecká cesta
Up to the piton, traverse left and to the ring. Directly into the corner and by it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Cesta nad jizerou _ střední
From the statue of Christ by corner crack with embedded stones, then receding and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Cesta nad jizerou - levá
From the statue of Christ by SE edge. Initially overhanging. Higher up the overgrown wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Fotogenická spára
By chimney (piton) to the small platform. By crack in the small corner into the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Tůmova spára
Left along the diverging crack over the piton and ring to the crown. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Žižijáda
From the left to the ring on the pinnacle and diagonally right to the ledge. Freely to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Sázka na třináctku
By the route “Right Corner” to the ledge and left under the slab. Diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Varianta
From the ring left upwards and traverse right above the ring. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Levá knichalova spára
Up the saltpeter corner to the right of the yellow wall, via the crack and fissure to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Direkt traverz vzdechů
Directly to the 1st ring, up to the 1st and 2nd pitons (slings). From there either left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8
Tři dny kondora
From the ledge, right upwards to the 1st ring. Directly and right up the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Smuteční cesta
To the right of the prominent corner, difficult up the double crack into the recess and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Smuteční komín
Up the corner or its left edge into the chimney and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Květinová stěna
Up the wall directly to the small chimney and along the edges, higher up left onto a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Panteonský kout
Up the wall from the left into the corner and up the massive corner (slings) all the way… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Primátorka
Up the edge of the corner for about ten meters, step right behind the edge, over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Vagónova varianta
From the corner briefly left, up the wall (rap anchor - added later) under the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Panteonský kout
Up the massive corner (slings) under the overhang, from the right along the crack (sling)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Dlouhý ruce
To the right of the Magical Fingers route, up the wall over 2 rings (originally rivets)… Rock Climbing
?
Panteonská spára
(The longest crack in the middle of the South face of the Pantheon). Up the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pravá varianta
From the ramp further right between the diagonal crack and the chimney. Up the small wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Východní hrana
From the North, first along the edge, higher up left of the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Severní pravá
Through a structured corner, higher up via a crack below the overhang, traverse right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Bezvýznamné plus
Up the small corners to the ring. Up into the hole, right and up, left into the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Sedlová cesta
To the right of the memorial plaque up the crack to the end and left to the hourglass. Up… Rock Climbing Textile belay