Panteon in the northern part of Bohemian Paradise is an area of tall massifs with more than 300 routes on 20 walls – for example Belvedér (south face), Kluziště, Bílá stěna, Malý Panteon and Centrální stěna – I. liga. The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 11.
Part of Northern areas, Panteon has 303 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 20 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.
Rules
Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.
Nature protection: climbing allowed year-round except for some routes on Sokolí věž from July 1st to January 31st. Nature Protection Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps OP CHKO Český Ráj authority.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
- Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- Abseil only from fixed anchors.
- Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
- Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
- First ascents usually need prior approval.
On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.
Belvedér - jižní stěna Kluziště Bílá stěna Malý Panteon - severní stěna Centrální stěna - I. liga Malý Panteon - jižní stěna Mnich Centrální stěna - II.liga Vrchol s křížem Centrální stěna - střed stěny Věž Ivy Kovářové Centrální stěna - levá část U lomu Centrální stěna - plotna Panteonská jehla Panteonský špičák Věž nad kaplí Náprstek Rezavá stěna Centrální stěna, II. patro
8-/8
Levá hrana plotny.
Up the "Pantheon Crack" to the ring. Through a corner, higher up along the edge and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Smutné shledání
Up the wall into the chimney, up it and right to the ledge to the ring. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Farao
Directly to the 1st ring and up to the 2nd ring. Slightly right to the 3rd ring. Up and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Varianta Panta rhei
From the 2nd ring, from the right to the 3rd ring (without stepping into the crack). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Salto varianta
From the 2nd ring to the end of the crack (sling to the right), left into the center of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Eldorádo
Via the crack to the 1st ring. Slightly right upwards to the 2nd ring, left up the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Panta rhei
From the 1st ring of "Eldorado" right, higher up left below a small chimney and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Varianta věrných
From the 2nd ring to the ledge, right into a small crack and up it to the 3rd ring. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Irata
Left of the "Good Morning" route, up the center of the pillar over 4 bolt hangers below… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hradní hrana
Start on the "South Wind" route in the left part of the Central Wall up to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7
Levá varianta
From the ring diagonally left along the small crack. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Varianta dešťovou spárou - levá
From the ramp from the ring, left and up a structured crack. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Sabotážní varianta
Through the chimney of the "Middle Route" under the overhanging chimney, left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Pepermintová hrana
Via the crack to the small platform to the ring on the edge and along it to the courtyard. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Torzo benety
From the upper ledge along the inclined cornice right into the corner, by it to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Panteonská stěna
Up the rusty wall through a small cave into a depression and diagonally right onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
RP variant
Along the crack (ring) and via the crack to the ramp. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+
Zadarmo na hrad
Approach two meters left of the "Pantheon Beauty" route. Directly up the wall over two… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zakázané ovoce
Like “Velký předěl” (Great Divide), up the wall and via the pillar to the rim and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Stůl rejpalů
Up the wall (bolt and ring) to the chimney and along it to the 2nd ring. Directly over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Plnotučná kráva
From the 1st ring of "Edge of the Corner" to the right and up the middle of the pillar… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Přímá varianta
From the ledge directly to the 1st ring and directly from it. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Varianta — přes chobot
From the ledge under the summit wall left and directly over the smallest overhang into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Varianta - zimní plotna
Directly by slab (ring) into "Students' Route" (sling) and to the ring of route "Farewell… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Mávej ručičkama a dělej při tom vrtulky
Directly up the wall over BH to the 2nd ring of route "Sandpit" and slightly from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Varianta zeleného dráčka
From the 2nd ring from the left (sling) over the overhanging block and up the middle of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Západní stěna
Through the center of the W face to the hole (piton), traverse right to the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Návrat
Up the wall to the left of the edge under the small overhang (bolt added later), over it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Pořád dobrý
By wall right of the SE corner to the bolt. By wall (slings) into the ledge and in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay