Part of Jižní prostor, Pravý jižní pilíř has 10 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 5- to 11. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route on sun, Friends, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing.
Rules
The permit applies to sport climbing. It does not apply to bouldering, drytooling, slackline and highline. - access only via hiking trails or marked access paths - a detailed description of the paths is in a measure of general nature - report bird nesting to the rock manager - climbing only in daylight - prohibition of damaging and changing the surface of rocks - prohibition of using protection that damages the rock - prohibition of using winter climbing equipment - prohibition of rappelling using trees and bushes, prohibition of interfering with vegetation and loosening stones - prohibition of first ascents without the consent of the rock manager, who will negotiate consent with the nature protection body OVK: - prohibition of creating routes from above without prior OVK consent - prohibition of using rocks and summit books for commercial purposes; any intention must be consulted with the manager and OVK
Nature protection: climbing allowed year-round. NPR Bořeň - OOP 2021-2030, OP CHKO České středohoří authority.
Bořeň National Nature Reserve – climb only on permitted rocks and respect any seasonal closures. Current status in the ČHS crag database.
The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.
5
Lovecká
At the entrance to the Nadvoří (Courtyard), there is a wide crack in the wall of the… Rock Climbing Friends Route on sun +1
5
Úzká
To the right of 'Lovecka' (Hunting route), there is a vertical, narrow crack (fissure) in… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Nový variant staré cesty
Up the corner like 'Old Way', but then over an overhanging crack left from the corner … Rock Climbing Route on sun
5+
Velikonoční Mikuláš
To the left of 'Teplicke' via 2 rivets upwards. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6+
Teplická
Up the prominent corner in the fall line of the pillar (over 2 added rings) upwards. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
11
Placheckého pilíř
Via 'Lovecka' (Hunting route) up to the level of the overhang. Step down onto the top of… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5-
Stará cesta
Up left or center, but most often to the right under the balcony. From the balcony then: … Rock Climbing Route on sun
5-
Krátký variant staré cesty
Up to the ledge, through the left crack to the next ledge, and from there through a hand… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5-
Varianta středem
Wider corner crack to the tree on the next platform, straight up the crack. Rock Climbing Route on sun
5-
Levá varianta
Slightly overhanging crack left from 'Variant stredem' to the platform, wider crack left… Rock Climbing Route on sun