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Part of 08. Ostroh Španělské stěny, Rozlámaná stěna has 19 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 4+ to 8+/9-. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Route on sun, Sport Climbing.

Rules

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from February 1st to June 30th. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from February 1st to June 30th. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84876, 14.23203

7-/7
Rozlámaná stěna
In the right part of the wall approx. 10m to the left of "Walk the Line" a sharp edge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Rozlámaná stěna
From the 3rd bolt of the route Střepy znamenají štěstí (Shards Mean Happiness), 3 m along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Rozlámaná stěna
To the right of the route Chleba s máslem (starting from the upper terrace) belay (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6+/7-
Rozlámaná stěna
From the 3rd bolt of the "Earthquake Free Zone" route, to the right along a distinct edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Rozlámaná stěna
Start from the belay (stand) of the route "Tectonic Plate" to the 2nd bolt and then to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6+/7-
Rozlámaná stěna
To the right of the "Osmibřízková" route, through the middle of the wall over a bolt to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Rozlámaná stěna
To the left of the prominent roof-like overhang, up the corner crack under the overhang.… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7/7+
Rozlámaná stěna
From the 1st bolt of the route Chleba s máslem (Bread with Butter) up the wall and a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Rozlámaná stěna
To the left of the route "Crazy Sima" directly over 4K to the 2nd bolt of the route … Rock Climbing
4+
Rozlámaná stěna
In the right part of the wall to the left of a prominent pillar, corner notches and edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Rozlámaná stěna
To the right of "Walk the Line" up the wall (bolts) to the shelf and right along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Rozlámaná stěna
To the right of "With a Stone on Your Head" from the shelf (large block) up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Rozlámaná stěna
Overhanging edge over the bolt for rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Rozlámaná stěna
"To the left of Pride, through the middle of the small wall over two bolts to the top of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Rozlámaná stěna
Start 8m to the left of "Deziluze" up the wall over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Rozlámaná stěna
Chimney to the left of "Osmibřízkové" to the end and wall diagonally to the right over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Rozlámaná stěna
From the start of the Deziluze route, up the wall around the loose block and above it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Rozlámaná stěna
Start with a brittle wall to the left of "Crazy Sima" over 4 rings to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Rozlámaná stěna
To the left of the "September Boys" route, up the corner narrowing into a crack, higher… Rock Climbing

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